The Bob Graham Round: The round

Part 2. Round Our Way. How to get Round from Keswick to Keswick without succumbing to being too soft.

After the training was done, all that was left to do was the formality of actually running around in a great big circle. But as you might have picked up if you read Part 1: Training - this was far from a formality for me. Wracked with doubt, praying for weather, and organising a team of ten to have the right things, in the right places, at the right times - once I was ‘tapering’, my mild OCD had logistics to freak out over instead of mileage. Sadly, freaking out over controllables is what I do best. One of my amazing support runners said to me: “I’ve helped on over a dozen Rounds now, and I’ve never seen one so meticulously organised”. In this essay I’ll start with logistics, and then get on to talking you through the day itself.

Disclaimer before we begin: the photographs probably aren’t as nice as they were in the Training essay. Basically, we didn’t have much time to stop. What’s contributed here is phone snaps from my gorgeous team.

Logistics:

When August started and the taper began in earnest I switched my focus to the organisation of food, fluids, equipment and people. I’d put out a Facebook status request asking for help, and whilst I’d hoped for a sort of Avengers Assemble of the very best of my running mates, I also had my fingers crossed that we’d have enough folk on board to be able to satisfy the Bob Graham Club’s ratification criteria, namely, at least one pacer to witness each summit. The BG club were amazing actually - it’s really easy to register an attempt, the criteria are straightforward, after the Round you send in your times/names on a list; and then they send you your certificate.

I started by laying out 10-11 carrier bags on my living room floor, selloptaping a piece of lined paper to them and then labelling them. “Leg 1: Jacob. Keswick - Threlkeld. 500ml Tailwind; 1 x Snickers; 1 x Dark Chocolate Tunnock; 1 x Clif Bar. Reminder to note down summit times”. During the first week of August I made several expensive trips to supermarkets and running shops, and bought a lot of fluids and powders, snack bars, some more substantial ‘normal’ food for the road crossings, and gradually filled these bags. “Threlkeld Road Crossing. George. Bacon. Brown sauce. White bread. 1L Lucozade. Dry socks. Dry shoes. Reminder to collect Jacobs summit times and note them down on ratification form. Reminder to give Tom Leg 2 food and drink bag and ratification summit times card. Reminder to start drying Leg 1 shoes. Reminder to plug my phone in for a few minutes charge while I eat. Reminder to return phone to me before I set off”. During these weeks my lodger would come home from work and before cooking his evening meal he would often pause to gawp at the transparency of obsessive fastidious mania laying in evidence on the living room floor. “Sorry mate, it’s only for a week. Helps me relax to see it all”, “‘Course it does, buddy. ‘Course it does.”

Once the food and drink was purchased and organised (I even laid out my changes of socks and shoes, extra base layers, warm layers for the night, headtorch etc); I started bothering the Group Chat with my concerns. I made - and by God it sounds awful to confess this now, but at the time it felt like such an obvious step - a comprehensive spreadsheet with everyones mobile contact details on; the schedule and timings; where everyone should be at various stages; how/when support runners would be collected, and returned to their cars or homes; Who to ring (not me); how best to check for progress; Grid refs for Sat Nav’s to let the road crossing crew and pacers know exactly which lay-by or car park to be at. This was a fairly weighty document and I did cringe a bit knowing that some of the team would receive the notification, open the message, roll their eyes and not even open the attachment never mind read it.

I had a meeting with my main man George at my house - to cook him curry and basically talk him through the entire thing stage by stage, hour by hour, making sure he dropped accurate labelled pins on his own Sat Nav for every road crossing. George and I have had a few successful adventures together at home and abroad - the man is a bonafide star, perfectly skill matched to a day like this; but this wasn’t a dress rehearsal, it needed to go right first time, and I would be relying on him to troubleshoot and coordinate proceedings while I was otherwise engaged. If a road crew/pacers got lost en route to Wasdale, or any road crossing really, that would be the end and a waste of 8 months of at times brutal emotion-invested training. It wasn’t that I didn’t trust him to be his usual heroic self, it was more just a case of me unloading all the issues that were rattling around my mind, into his, so that I could relax and focus on the more immediate task of running.

George and I drove up to Keswick with a day spare to potter about and not have drive-weary legs on the big day. I think I probably drove him crazy talking about The Round for the entire 6 hours. It was hard to get away from something that had been a sole focus for 8 months, but at the same time, I think he knew it was important to me to offload these concerns and tasks onto him so that I had a stress free mind and could just relax and run.

We met Neil and his partner Maureen in the afternoon before, and went for a very gentle swim at Keswick leisure centre, and then had a slap up dinner. Over time I’d had a few good long runs the day after cheese burgers and chips and so that was my ‘pre-match meal’. Neil and I hugged and he returned to the campsite he and Maureen stayed at while George and I went back to his luxurious van (big enough for separate beds!). For 2 weeks prior to the Round I had (amongst everything else) obsessed over sleep. I’d been religiously getting up at 6am, going to bed at 9pm, and had zero caffeine. I wanted 6am to feel normal, and I wanted to know I’d been getting 9 solid hours a night, every night, and I’d cut caffeine to aid that, and also for it to have maximum effect when I had some on the Round. Obviously nerves kept me awake past 9pm, but I think I was asleep by around 10-10.15pm. I’d gone for the breakfast time start after trying a midnight start on my solo attempt several years previously. Unable to sleep in the afternoon and evening, I’d felt that sleep deprivation had seriously scuppered that attempt, having been awake for 32 hours when I quit.

I woke up excited at 6am. Ate some porridge, a banana, and poured in a full litre of water, and some orange juice. I had my kit layed out ready and was dressed quickly. My hands were trembling a little as I brushed my teeth. I had my soft flasks already in my race vest with the right powders in. George had the bag of items for Jacob to carry. We walked from the van to the Moot Hall. I needed a pee. And then, actually maybe a poo? Do I need a poo? Damn, everywhere is shut. Dashing down an alley to find a public toilet or an open hotel, I bumped into my Uncle - who’d driven across from the Dales as a surprise. So I walked back to the Moot Hall with him and never got that poo.

The Round.

Moot Hall. L-R Maureen, Neil, me, Jacob, George

Moot Hall. L-R Maureen, Neil, me, Jacob, George


Leg 1. Jacob Tonkin.

I’d met Jacob through Salomon. A year or so back I was lucky enough to be approached and asked to be an ‘Ambassador’. I’d made several protestations about not wanting to: I wasn’t quick, wasn’t particularly prolific on Social Media, I didn’t like races, and I climbed most of the time (which was irrelevant content for a running brand); but I was still offered free gear in exchange for hashtags and they felt like nice people to work with. Jacob was another Ambassador who lived in Keswick. A third generation fell runner from a family upbringing in Borrowdale. He’d supported a mutual friend (and another Salomon Ambassador) earlier in the year and I’d been able to watch on Instagram Stories and saw him do it with such good humour, positivity, and a relaxed mood, which was so ‘exactly what I want’ that I sent an out of the blue message, and was thrilled when he said he would help. He would run Leg 1 with me (and kindly carry some of Neil’s gear too. Remember, he’s never even met Neil and doesn’t owe him a favour at all, which means he’s sort of being doubly nice to me), then he would go to work during the day. But not only that, he would then get up at 2am the following day, to do Leg 5 in the early hours and hopefully see me home. And then go back to work again. Mind blowing. Think about that next time you ask a favour of a mate. That’s part of the spirit of Bob Graham Rounds though, and in the past I’d supported on 4 or 5 Rounds for other people as well. After we’d got back to Exeter and done a fairly lengthy post-mortem in the van, George said “Jacob was an absolute star for you there mate. Really was worth his weight in gold”.

Jacob looking unimpressed with this Strava nonsense.

Jacob looking unimpressed with this Strava nonsense.

So 7am came and we started our timers to record our run. George, my Uncle and Maureen clapped us off. And then we were jogging, after 8 months and over 1500 miles of training, it was finally happening. I tried to feel light and loose and jog really gently. Jacob lead us through the streets, then the park, then up onto the Bridleway towards Latrigg (and immediately schooled me on my pronunciation of a hill I’d been up a dozen times and pronounced wrong every single time). We jogged and walked and were all in good spirits. The weather was nice. Settled and dry (in the air), after some weeks of very heavy rain. A part of me didn’t want to know what our split times were, but equally, I was hoping for 23h pace (or better if we felt up to it) so as to have an hour in reserve if things went wrong later in the Round. I’d seen a YouTube film of someone run it in 23:59.58 and that was my idea of purgatory. Needing to really push hard after all those miles and fells and it be touch and go all the way into Keswick… shudder… I was desperately keen to avoid that. But Jacob was full of positivity. As soon as any hint of down talk let slip my lips he pounced on it in his perfectly judged way. “It’s all smiles now, I wonder how long they’ll last? At some stage it’s going to get real“. “No. It’s going to be one of the best days of your life. Just relax and enjoy it”.

The pull up Skiddaw is a bloody drag. A treadmill set on 7% incline. It goes on a bit, it’s probably nearly 10k to the top from the start, an hour give or take of uphill slog and it feels a tad demoralising. Sweating and puffing, for an hour, and you haven’t even bagged 1 fell yet… with 23h to go. But we crested the top with Jacob in full efficiency mode: noting the time, offering a glug of water and dashing ahead to find the line to the stile over the fence and the bouncy romp down towards Great Calva - without Neil and I having to stop at all. I could hear Neil cautioning me/us to save our legs and not get carried away freewheeling on the soft heather and springy turf. It was pretty hard to resist that though, early enthusiasm and your mind tells you to savour some easy miles in the bank. It felt so easy, how can this be taxing for later on? Expectedly it was pretty boggy at the bottom and we crossed onto the line up Great Calva with wet feet. After a couple of weeks of rain we knew the ground would be wringing wet. Neil and I had discussed this the night before over dinner. My strategy was to accept the wetness on Leg 1 (as we’d be rib deep in the swollen river crossing anyway), then dry my feet thoroughly at Threlkeld, then wear some Sealskinz to try and keep them dry for the less boggy second Leg, and as much of Leg 3 as I could. Neil favoured a more traditional approach. “I’ve never suffered from blisters in my life”. George gently challenged him “But have you ever had wet feet for 24h before?”.

Great Calva climb was over quite quickly and I think I snuck a Tunnock’s in on the top before the trickier-than-Skiddaw descent along the wall. After we crossed from the wall on the track to the river I got the sole of my shoe caught between rocks and totally stacked it. No harm done, but a proper spill. The river wasn’t as full as we’d expected but pants and socks were saturated as we trudged up the sodden sponge of Mungrisdale Common. As we approached Blencathra Jacob was telling funny stories which had both of us laughing, then he showed us a sneaky line that cut out some incline and allowed us to run all the way to one of the most beautiful summit views in the entire National Park. Again he noted the summit time, and we pressed on down Halls Fell ridge without pausing. Neil was not a fan of tottering on the rocky ground but to his credit, fared better than he had on our recce weekends. Towards the bottom Jacob said we were somewhere around 22h pace and I was ecstatic with that as we felt fresh and excited.

Threlkeld. Reunited with Saint George. As we jogged to his immaculate van by the ‘industrial estate’, George greeted me with a deck chair, 2 rounds of bacon sandwiches (white bread, brown sauce, butter), handed me new socks and shoes, and took my phone from me to charge it. I was buzzing. It was happening now. As I was changing socks and chewing, I again heard Jacob say to George that we were just under 22h pace and I was thrilled. It had felt easy and fun and been faster than our recce’s. Jacob was smiling as we left (I had to carry one bacon sarny to save time. I’d wanted to leave it but everyone said that front loading as many calories as possible was useful, so I chewed it as we jogged towards Clough Head). The sun was shining, and everything felt right in the world.

With Jacob and bacon outside George’s amazing rig. Photo: George

With Jacob and bacon outside George’s amazing rig. Photo: George

Leg 2. It’s only Tom Randall everyone.

I’d met Tom years before, through a mutual friend who’d volunteered my services as a local climber with some bouldering pads who might come and spot Tom while he attempted a Devon boulder problem. It was a ridiculously hard roof crack, above a pebble beach, and was actually quite hard to spot. The pebbles would move under my feet, and bending down to move our mats along as Tom made progress - while he was 10 feet above in the roof, was tricky and stressful. At one stage I remember thinking that my hands were right under his hips/lower back, perfect to guide him onto his feet if he f… He fell so hard and fast it was like the roof spat him out. He probably weighs about 10 stone wet through but he still went straight through my arms, pulling me to the mat with him, and crying out in pain as he landed with my upper arm underneath him. “I think I’ve broken a rib”. Fuck sake. You go climbing with rock royalty and you end up breaking them. Fortunately, nothing was actually broken. Tom soon returned to complete his project, but we didn’t cross paths again until both reccying BG stages earlier in the summer. Literally crossed paths as well. Tom had bigger, badder ultra goals in mind. But he wasn’t much of a navigator and so when we bumped into him he explained that he was exploring where he’d gone wrong the day before. We ran together for a few miles towards Great Gable, and I noticed Tom pay particular attention any time I looked at the map, craning his neck to see what I was looking at. He confessed to getting persistently lost and so I volunteered to show him some map skills later in the summer. He text me that night to say “Got lost again”. Which was mildly alarming as when we’d gone our separate ways he’d essentially only needed to retrace our steps, in good visibility. But his consolation prize to himself was that he’d stashed ingredients back at his car to drink a weird coca-cola & milk concoction that he called a Brown Cow.

We’d hooked up on our next recce weekend and we’d looked at some map basics in pea soup on Leg 4. “How do you know that’s a kilometre?” “Because the blue grid squares are a kilometre” “OHHHHH!! Good tip!”. I found him to be absolutely outrageously good at pushing hard. Before meeting us in Wasdale, he’d already run from Threlkeld, and after leaving us he finished in Keswick. So four out of five legs as a training run, and it had taken him just under 14 hours. On target for a 16.5-17h Round. He was nearly running a full BG as a training run, and a bloody quick one to boot! Not only that, but when he’d opened his bag to get hat and gloves out (not a modern race vest but a crappy hikers day sack that must have bounced around horribly), it contained a 2pt Tesco plastic milk bottle, and a child’s ‘Henry Caterpillar’ birthday cake - the whole thing, in the cellophane presentation box. Neil leant in to me to whisper, “Your mate, is he, y’know, is he alright upstairs?” He might be a maverick thinker, Tom, but man can he run.

To my astonishment Tom had answered my facebook call for help, and volunteered to do Legs 2 and 3 (this was crucial in the planning as well. Because Neil and I suspected we might start to struggle on Legs 3 and 4, we’d wanted to have 2 pacers on both of those legs, one pacer each, so as for neither of us to hold the other one up if/when we did start flagging). Again, running roughly 30 miles over the highest mountains in England, as a favour, was compounded by making a 200 mile round trip from Sheffield early in the morning, then returning in the dead of night, (I think he actually kipped in a service station because of the slow blink while driving home) and then going to work the next day. Plus carrying our spare food and gear like all the other pacers. And he did all this for someone who nearly broke his ribs once. To thank him, I moaned for most of Leg 2 and half of Leg 3.

Indigestion Crew leave Threlkeld. Tom, me, Neil. Photo: George.

Indigestion Crew leave Threlkeld. Tom, me, Neil. Photo: George.

As well as force-poking bacon and bread down my throat to the point of indigestion, after the grim-grim-grim pull up Clough bastard Head, my legs started to cramp ever so mildly. Little twinges. Nothing agonising, and no comedy seize ups, but cramp nonetheless. So I was running with a sort of tension and apprehensiveness, quite gingerly, and I kept burping. I was a bit annoyed, and a bit concerned. I remember trying to tell Tom that it was because of the super wet ground, and that Sir Alex Ferguson would always rest Giggsy if it had been raining to protect his hamstrings, and Tom just looking at me as if I was a pathetic weakling who should really just concentrate on forward motion.

Leg 2 is widely regarded as the section where you can do the most running. Once up Clough Head, the Helvellyn range is a sort of wide open plateau’d ridge that undulates gently for most of it’s length. After the effort of Skiddaw and the 3 summits of the whole first leg, suddenly you’re ticking off peaks every quarter of an hour or so. But I was cramping, bloated, and slightly tired. Neil said he was totally fine, and so I allowed him and Tom to chat while I focused on not getting morose and negative. We bumped into Bob Graham Club secretary Paul Wilson (he introduced himself) just before Helvellyn Low Man, and he joined us for a while before moving off at a faster pace than us. Dropping down from Dollywagon Pike to Grisedale Tarn, Tom started to point out the line he took up Fairfield. In a rare show of compassion he said, “This is going to be a bit of a bitch, but bite size chunk it: 100m to that path junction. 100m to that scree. 100m until it flattens out”. It was a bitch. But he kept cajoling and encouraging me and we had a Tunnock on Fairfield top and drank some fluid, and he allowed me to use his walking poles as a sort of foam roller on the backs of my legs (I think this worked you know!); before saying, “Right then. If you two pussies want to stay on 22h pace you’d better get off your lily-white arses hadn’t you?”, and getting up and running off. Neil and I exchanged open mouthed glances and then got up and followed him. I trusted him again coming off Seat Sandal when he shouted at us to follow his line (remember, the man has been lost longer than Maddy McCann), and suddenly we could see George’s van and Maureen’s car at Dunmail Raise.

Arriving at Dunmail Raise. Actually crazed.

Arriving at Dunmail Raise. Actually crazed.

George again (Maureen looked after Neil throughout) delivered the goods. This time rice pudding with jam, and flat Coca Cola. I think I also had a paracetamol and a ‘Vitamin i’ as a precautionary measure because I was expecting Leg 3 to be where things started to physically hurt. While I was eating and letting my feet breathe, George got the leg timings from Tom , charged my phone again with an additional few percentages of battery, and handed out the supplies to new supporter and official nicest-man-in-the-world Matt Hardy. The weather was still primo.

First caffeine in 2 weeks // Think I wrote on both hands: KEEP & GOING // They’re George’s surfing wetsuits.

First caffeine in 2 weeks // Think I wrote on both hands: KEEP & GOING // They’re George’s surfing wetsuits.

I was again excited at the road crossing. Partly it just is exciting. You’re reunited with your mates, you’ve just done a successful 16-17mile run through beautiful mountains (on a normal day an adventure in itself), nothing’s broken and you’re in the middle of your big day. The whirlwind of change-over gear/food/people while the clock is ticking (and everyone is behaving as if the clock is ticking) kind of keeps your spirits up by virtue of it being all-go. You get swept along in it all and are aware that everyone there - whether they’re carrying something, writing something down, passing you wet wipes, or collecting your dirty dishes - is there because they are helping you. That’s a very humbling feeling and so you play your part in those proceedings with relish.

Leg 3. Tom Randall & Matt Hardy; also starring Emma Crome and Guy Buckingham

Steel Fell is a bastard.L-R: Matt, me, Tom, Neil. Photo: George or Maureen

Steel Fell is a bastard.

L-R: Matt, me, Tom, Neil. Photo: George or Maureen

Even before we’d climbed the stile to access Steel Fell, Matt Hardy had laid down his Good-Cop law: “Hi Mark, hi Neil. You’re both looking great! I’ve gone to the trouble of buying a few extra’s so we are well covered for all types of food and drinks. I’ve got some spare walking poles too if either of you feel the need for them, plus sun cream, buffs, and first aid.” I was a bit speechless. Like Tom, Emma and Guy, Matt has driven across from Sheffield to help. I had only met him once or twice at this stage, through work, and it’s just very, very touching that relative strangers (we’re not strangers, but we weren’t lifelong friends either) will give up their weekend. And not only the time, but he’s spent money on fuel, and extra food and drink, he’s carrying the heaviest pack of the day, and plus - this is the longest leg - it’s actually quite hard to run 20 miles over Englands highest tops. So there’s discomfort and hard bloody graft thrown in.

Tom carried on after the road stop so Neil and I had two pacers for the first time. We left George and Maureen and would see them in Wasdale all being well. A long drive for them, and they had to collect pacers on the way, as well as my dream dinner!

Men of Steel [Fell]. Neil, Me, Tom. Photo: Matt.

Men of Steel [Fell]. Neil, Me, Tom. Photo: Matt.

Like all the Leg’s, Leg 3 starts with a slap in the face. And to be honest I’d rather have taken a slap in the face. Steel Fell is a straight up hands on knees grovel. Count paces, set visual goals (get to that rock), tune in to Toe-Cap TV and wait for it to be over. Reaching the top is a blessed relief, but the view across to the Langdales and beyond is one of the more intimidating of the entire Round. Everything looks absolutely bloody miles away. And that’s because it is. And, if that’s not enough good news for you, guess what? You’re going to run there sonny Jim, so you’d best press on. We started trotting. Matt was chipper and psyched and was asking how it was all going and - get this - thanked us for letting him tag along.

I personally find the next few miles past Calf Crag to Sergeant Man to be the hardest navigation of the Round, as the paths are the faintest and the lumps and bumps are a bit complex. But Matt and Tom kept double checking each other and that made it easy to switch off and just follow along. I was pretty sluggish here, my cramp hadn’t yet subsided. This ground is still soft and boggy and whilst I wasn’t seriously concerned, I was in a medium funk that I wasn’t feeling better, because we weren’t even half way round yet. I told myself to keep trucking and hoped that I’d feel better on the rockier land ahead. The two pacers would occasionally stop to compare navigation notes, or let us catch up, or offer drinks or wine gums. I don’t think I was necessarily much slower than Neil here (Tom is a machine, and Matt was fresh) but my tiredness made me feel sluggish and like I was potentially holding everyone up, so rather than stop where they did, I just pushed straight through and started up the next incline, acutely aware that they’d probably catch me up soon enough. I’d spent time in training realising the completely bleeding obvious fact that - keeping moving, even slowly, is a helluva lot faster than being stopped.

Somewhere between Sergeant Man and Calf Crag we were treated to a surprise appearance by a huge and loud American jet doing an extravagant drifting manoeuvre right above us before it swiftly disappeared in an ear shattering roar. That briefly raised our spirits, then after some more uphill slogging I forced a proper consistent run from Sergeant Man to High Raise and then immediately seized on that momentum by tagging the Trig and running back towards the Langdales, chatting to Neil more happily as we made some swifter progress.

Photo: Matt Hardy

Photo: Matt Hardy

This was the first time I’d had to dig a bit deeper. Partly I was still annoyed at the twinges of cramp, and partly at the creeping malaise, and therefore growling out a couple of miles on flattish ground felt like a concerted effort to stop the rot. I think also Neil kindly gave me a caffeine gel. Looking back this was probably the worst I felt on the whole Round, with the exception of 5-10 minutes on Yewbarrow that also sticks out as a low point. Basically the first half of Leg 3 was tough. I felt tired, and my confidence was dented. I knew I’d be tired of course, at this stage we’ve done 30 miles of mountains, but while I felt emotionally like I was holding on to the other 3 guys just about, I certainly didn’t physically have any other gears, that’s for sure.

The caffeine gel got me to The Langdale Pikes in slightly better spirits, again you tick off Wainwrights like fish in a barrel, and then there is the view of the long arcing sweep around Martcrag Moor and Stakes Pass towards Rossett Pike that is boggy and a bit blank, but I told myself that this was the last of the heavy turf underfoot. Get to Bowfell and you’ll feel better. Some fun was had here as Neil went in up to his hips, and Matt Hardy showed further chivalrous behaviour by reacting to grab him, and then immediately offering to dry Neil’s phone, and checking he was alright. For my part, 30 metres ahead with Tom, I’d seen it coming and did the less honourable ‘film him on my phone and laugh’.

Great Gable (visible just behind me) - absolutely bloody miles away. We’ll get there at around 3 o’clock in the morning.

Great Gable (visible just behind me) - absolutely bloody miles away. We’ll get there at around 3 o’clock in the morning.

Just under Rossett Pike there was an unspoken pause, instigated by Tom, who Neil and I were now basically obeying like a great and commanding leader after he’d called us Pussy’s with such conviction. At the Dunmail road crossing, George had given me a folded piece of paper and told me to save it for a low moment. The low moment had past but the tea break seemed opportune. George - bless his socks - had written down all the ‘good luck’ messages that had been coming through via Instagram Story replies (I’d given him my log in details and asked him to post a few photo updates for my parents back in Exeter). There were a couple of dozen messages which were humorous and kind, and I read the well-wishes out to the group who laughed at them, before we got up and got on with Bowfell and the Scafell massif. Tom took a different line up Bowfell to the gully Neil and I had recce’d (and that I’d researched via online forums as the best way), but again he didn’t get us lost, and we were soon on top and turning back towards Esk Pike and Great End.

Rock. At last, still a bit sluggish but the cramp was almost immediately gone. Might have been placebo, might not. But I did start to feel more at home and more dainty. Not exactly light and loose but definitely more athletic. Between Great End and Scafell Pike it started to grey over, and on the descent to Mickledore I totally lost sight of Tom in thick clag, and I could hear Neil and Matt calling to me from behind. I knew the way and followed the track, calling back to them to follow my voice, and then we met two more of my Angel’s in the clouds: Guy Buckingham and Emma Crome.

Their gift to me was in some ways even more generous than the other Sheffield guys. Generous or foolish. They’d made the same journey, albeit with the additional 75minutes tour round into Wasdale Head, then hiked up Scafell with climbing gear laden loads; rigged a handrail rope down the infamous Broad Stand, then waited in the rain and wind for us to arrive, promptly romp up their knotted rope, thank them briskly and disappear higher into the cloud. They’d seen us for something like 2 minutes, then they unrigged the rope and anchors, hiked down, and drove back to Sheffield. It beggars belief. A whole day of time, money and effort to help me for 2 minutes. There were two alternate diversions to Broad Stand, and some opinions thought there to be not much in it in terms of time saved or lost. But Broad Stand is the most direct, with the least height lost (and therefore needing to be regained).

We were all - even world famous E9 climber Tom - grateful for the rope on a very wet Broad Stand. For those that don’t know, this is the only ‘climbing’ on the Round. It’s graded at Moderate, although it’s awkward and exposed. I’ve solo’d it before in good conditions without it being a worry, but in the wet, tired, in wet fell shoes rather than dry approach shoes, it’s far from ideal. We’d asked for the rope to be there mostly for Neil as well, who is too short to reach a really good hand hold and a non climber in any event - this added to the weight of the favour Emma and Guy gave. Primarily helping my friend, who they’ve never met. But since we had the offer of a rope, we took it.

Not too proud to aid-climb Mod’s. Thanks to Em & Guy.

Not too proud to aid-climb Mod’s. Thanks to Em & Guy.

After we’d hugged and thanked Emma (top of the ropes, Guy at the bottom), we set off for the top. But Neil was really slow and hesitant even on the easier ground after the sketchy bit. I’d twice stopped on ledges and stood and waited, starting to shiver in the cold. Tom would dash back to check Matt was okay spotting Neil up little rock steps, then whiz back up to me. I could see Neil was uncomfortable but could only really call encouragement back to him and allow Matt to look after him properly. Standing on the summit proper, Tom said, “We’d better go on ahead, we’re losing too much time”, so he went back to Matt and confirmed the plan that we’d split up, with Matt to run Neil off the hill. Tom and I set off for the Wasdale Head pizza party, and arrived just as the gloaming was in full effect. Neil and Matt arrived about 5 minutes or so later. I think I perhaps lost about 10-15 minutes while I stood waiting, so nothing terminal, and in all honesty, maybe if I hadn’t dragged arse around Calf Crag, Tom and Matt could have dragged Neil along a few minutes faster there? Either way, we ate together at Wasdale and prepared for the night to come.

As well as George and Maureen, we were now joined by Leg 4 pacers, Brennan and Kat. And my Hollywood Diva request for pizza (my favourite meal, for morale purposes) was indulged too. The faff George has gone through after leaving Dunmail: tidying away tables, chairs, dishes; drive to Keswick to collect Bren and Kat, collect pizzas; drive to Wasdale; reheat pizza’s on cue; lay out dry socks, warm gear, head torch, phone charger, etc… I think also that Maureen had got quite badly lost (for 3 hours), but my capacity to listen to tales of woe (when I knew full well that Neil had simply not given her thorough enough Sat Nav details) was pretty low, I just chewed and nodded and put dry layers on. I was tired. It was getting dark and spotting with rain.

If you look closely you’ll see that Tom is about to whoop me for having too many slices of pizza. He thinks I should have left 5 minutes ago.

If you look closely you’ll see that Tom is about to whoop me for having too many slices of pizza. He thinks I should have left 5 minutes ago.

Leg 4: Power couple Brennan Townshend and Kat Polyakova

Naw. My Dream Team. Kat and Brennan with their payment in crumpets.

Naw. My Dream Team. Kat and Brennan with their payment in crumpets.

Leg 4 escapes Wasdale via a direct line up the imposing Yewbarrow. Not the longest and maybe not the steepest either, but strategically placed physically and emotionally, Yewbarrow finishes many. Wasdale is known as the Bob Graham graveyard, because that’s where most quit. Yewbarrow comes physically hard on the heels of a 3000 foot descent from Scafell (and the 40+ miles of running you’ve done to get there). Emotionally it’s also another big, intimidating and steep slog that frankly, is like a punch to the solar plexus and the very last thing you need.

As we set off I was preoccupied thinking about my headtorch. My only real oversight in planning was relying on Bren to lend me a really bright torch. Mine was a bit old and not really very good. Bren had then ended up needing to give his spare to Kat - who didn’t have one, so I had to resort to my rubbish one, and could barely see my feet. So the bottom of Yewbarrow was a bit of a stumbling chuntering mess. Neil was tucked in behind Bren, Kat was bringing up the rear behind me, and as well as torch issues (Kat’s was so bright it was casting my shadow in front of me so I was constantly treading in the dark), Yewbarrow was really bloody tough. I kept stopping at every zig zag, and my legs were hurting. I started making verbal protestations. ‘It’s too hard’, ‘I’m too tired’, ‘I can’t do it’. Kat was positive and encouraging, but it sort of didn't help. She’d say something positive and lovely like, “You’re doing amazing Mark, keep going” and it would make me so cross I wanted to snap at her to shut up. I recognised that I was grouchy, and exhausted, and stopped myself being needlessly rude. But I carried on being grumpy. After 15 minutes or so of really horrible grinding, I said: “That’s it. I just can’t do it. I think I’d better go down and let you guys make faster progress without me” (in truth, Neil and Bren were only about 5metres ahead, but I just felt woeful). Neil and Bren didn’t even hear me but Kat said, “You can’t do that Mark!” “Oh really Kat, and why’s that exactly?” passive aggressive sarcasm, the last resort. “Because I’ve just seen George’s van disappear, they’re on their way to Honister and there’s no signal anyway”. Oh. Shit. Oh well.

The grind continued for what felt like a long time. Unable to see the top in the dark there was nothing to focus on but burning legs. When we hit the top and I stood next to Bren checking his map, I said, “is this the top?” “Yea.” “Thank fuck for that.” Bren didn’t move. The cloud was like milk. Initially I was grateful as we moved off very cautiously, with Bren juggling both GPS and map & compass to navigate accurately. It was slightly wet, not really raining, but the cloud and the dark felt quite intimidating. Nonetheless I took the chance to physically and metaphorically get my breath back as we jog-walked, carefully following paths and cairns. Bren was very quiet, focused on the map and Neil and I walked dutifully in his wake. Kat was amazing, constantly encouraging and chatty and offering food and drink. If I hadn’t just consumed a pizza and a bottle of Coke she’d have been right to do so. But I couldn’t eat, didn’t need to, and was fairly happy walking and knowing we were past Yewbarrow, I regrouped my composure.

The only time I’ll ever be on Brennan’s shoulder telling him to hurry up in the fells. Photo: Kat

The only time I’ll ever be on Brennan’s shoulder telling him to hurry up in the fells. Photo: Kat

Brennan was, at the time, the British Sky Running champion. The boy is a freak of nature who works so, so hard, and if you ever run with him - it’s like he’s motorised. The VO2 of a horse. We were pretty fortunate to have such a high calibre of runner pacing two middle aged punters; but then the conditions slowed our Ace Card to a walk. We walked to Red Pike, tagging the cairn with a relief. Then we walked to Steeple. We weren’t shivering but we weren’t warm either and we were moving too slowly. “This is too slow Bren”. “I know”. I started to be concerned. Then we walked to Pillar. The clag was way worse than was forecast and I hadn’t really anticipated that we might get stopped by fog. Focusing on my weariness was now replaced by a slowly rising panic about the time slipping away. Then we walked to Kirk Fell. “It’s slipping away Bren”, “I know”.

Brennan has made some elementary errors in high profile fell racers and has a bit of a reputation for not being great at navigation. It’s cost him a few wins, and a few podiums, but normally he’s got the raw speed to make up for it. But despite his errors in races, what he did throughout the night Leg was a calm, measured strategy that bordered on audacious. He will have felt under tremendous pressure. It’s one thing getting lost in a Saturday fell race and getting the cheque for second place instead of the winners prize. But he will not have wanted to let a friend down by getting lost 3/4’s of the way through their Bob Graham attempt. In spite of that pressure, he didn’t panic, and he didn’t rush, in fact the opposite: The British Sky Running champion walked nearly an entire leg from Wasdale to Great Gable, stoically taking bearings and counting paces as the clock ticked down, satisfying his worries with the knowledge that we were methodically hitting the summits, and still moving. It’s hard to put enough emphasis on that. Also remember that he and Kat have just done a full days work. Coming straight from there and eating pasta out of Tupperware in George’s van. Then done a mammoth micro-navigation exercise through the night under emotion-laden time pressure, and he’s cooly kept his head for something like 6 hours, focusing solely on the map (occasionally asking Kat if she was warm enough) and never making one error. Whoever heard of someone walking a whole leg to guarantee success? I thought it was outrageous, but all the while the group mood was sinking.

My thoroughbred friend did get to stretch his legs eventually. As we topped out Great Gable the clouds began to clear. Suddenly I could see Green Gable below us, and my spirit, from the edge of the cliff of giving up all hope, spiked sharply. “What time is it?!” “10 to 3”. “Right! NEIL!!” I called back for Neil to hurry. He’d again been dropping back on the scrambling up Kirk Fell (it was very wet to be fair) and then the scree and rock on the Great Gable climb. “NEIL!! HURRY!” I called a huddle. “Right, by my maths if we can get to Honister in half an hour or so, we’ll still have 3 and a bit hours to do Leg 5. We can still do this but we have to GO! Neil. Listen to me. Caution to the wind now. RUN. No more gingerness, no more hesitance. Just fucking RUN. Brandreth and Grey Knotts are not tricky, if you stack it, you stack it, take the fall, get back up and run some more. We have not got time for anymore walking. Ready?” Neil said something like “Aye chief, I’ll give it my best shot”, and we set off.

These 2 minor summits were run in an atmosphere nothing short of frantic. The panic that had been simmering to the boil for 4 or 5 hours was bubbling over now. There was still a chance to get round in time, and I was desperate to seize it. I ran as fast as I could and felt quite fresh (5 hours of walking had probably helped), but in the intermittent clag, Brennan ran absolutely heroically. It’s part of the Bob Graham Club ratification criteria that the successful runner must be witnessed on every summit, so he ran with me to Brandreth top, then he set off running back to find Kat - calling out in the cloud as she was leading Neil, but had no map, and wasn’t confident to follow the path in the gloom - he’d wait for her to hear his voice or see his torch, and call “this way Kat! Keep going!” Then Kat would encourage Neil on - who was slowest and dropping back - “Come on Neil you can do it, keep going!” What a star she was, just consistently smiling and positive and encouraging, in those conditions it’s easy to lose that generous spirit. Kat didn’t let the cloud and rain and wind get her down at all, and kept up her chipper cajoling all night when it had felt otherwise quite stark and bleak. She and Bren made a great double act in that way, I don’t think Bren spoke too many words throughout!

So we made a snake-line of lights in the pea-soup, each member only able to see the next in line. Then Bren would run back to catch me up, and witness me top out on Grey Knotts. Soon I could see George’s van and Honister Slate Mine below me and Brennan told me he would go and get Kat and Neil. I dashed and slid to the van, falling on my arse several times. George looked worried. “This is going to be tight isn’t it. Here’s your coffee and crumpets”. I explained about Brennan, Kat and Neil. Jacob was as cool as a cucumber. “Can we still do it, Jacob?” “Yeeaaaa we’ve got loads of time lad. Relax. It’ll be fine”. My elaborate plans to change shoes or layers went out the window. I emptied some wrappers from pockets, and checked my phone had enough charge and was still chewing the first crumpet as we started walking from the car park. With absolutely no saliva, peanut butter had been a silly choice, and I think I frisbee’d it once we started the Dale Head climb and maybe I didn’t eat at all from Wasdale to Keswick.

Brennan was always going to run Leg 5 with us anyway, so I knew Neil had a pacer to either catch Jacob and I up, or to run him in as a pair. It would be so nice for us to run into Keswick together, but if we ran in a few minutes apart that would still be a remarkable day that we’d cherish forever.


Leg 5. Jacob Tonkin.

Still frantically powered by panic, I talked Jacob’s ears off about our through the night epic, and power marched up Dale Head, attacking the last steep climb. I felt like we made quite good progress here and I was excited to be getting stuck into Leg 5 as well as the whole - ‘it’s up in the air’ feeling. When I did pause I turned round to look back at the slate mine and couldn’t work out why Brennan and Neil’s head torches weren’t following us up the hill. “Why aren’t they coming?” “Don’t know lad. But you can’t worry about them for now, just keep on trucking”. This happened twice and on the third time I knew something was wrong. Had Neil quit? Surely not at Honister, with only 12-13 miles to go, easy hills and then 7 of those miles on road (Neil’s strength). Had he hurt himself in a fall? Instantly I regretted rushing off. If he had quit I knew that I could have cajoled and bullied him out of that car park and up one more significant climb. I knew it. It even occurred to me to go back down and shout at him. But we didn’t stop, and I felt a huge pang of guilt rise up in my stomach. I had let him down. I hadn’t waited. Hadn’t been there when he needed me. I’d just been a grumpy moaning grouch to him online and then when he really needed his mate, I was selfishly too far ahead to help, too interested in my own success. I didn’t share those feelings with Jacob but I suspect he knew what was going on as we silently trudged higher up into the rain and wind and the cloud closed the door on the view of the head torches in the car park.

NB: Neil did quit. He said everyone tried to urge him on but he had nothing left to give. He had fallen once or twice on the panic dash. The dark, and wet rock had shaken him and he had lost lots of skin from the bottoms of his feet that had been wet all day.


Jacob and I hit Dale Head top and there was a minutes panic as Jacob missed the path dropping down and quickly retraced back to the massive cairn before finding the right one. I think he called himself “a wazzock”, before we resumed on the right track for Hindscarth. I can’t remember what it was about but I do remember it being quite engaging conversation from there to Robinson. I’d slipped once or twice on the wet ground (I was utterly saturated by now) and resolved to just take it relatively easy until we got to the farm track and the road. As the morning light grew stronger I could see the valley farmland pastures and said silently to myself, ‘get to those tracks, and then give everything. Get down there safely, no need to rush on this ground, wait until the easy stuff and then full beans and it’s surely in the bag’. Then I fell, slipped, on the scrambling section down off Robinson, and felt foolish in front of Jacob as I’d told him when we met I was ‘a climber really, not a runner’. But I was so tired now I was even scrambling badly. The fall drew blood and left a bruise on my thigh and hip, but it was a war wound I was more than prepared to take. We zig zagged down to the farm track and I breathed a sigh of relief as Jacob went to relieve himself. “You push on lad, I’ll catch you up”. The farm track is a grass road, maybe a mile? on a gently downhill slope. I ran at near full tilt. I even had the composure to think about cadence and form and looking back at my splits on Strava I ran a couple of sub 7 minute miles here back to back. I was enjoying sheep-dogging some sheep along the road when Jacob caught me up. He said “Now you’re just showing off”, but I was mostly driven by the fear of a 23:59,58 finish. I wanted to know I was going to make it in time so that I could relax. But also there was a slowly swelling pride that I was going to do it, and I used that pride to run well here, with vivid echoes of the hundreds of training miles replaying in my mind.

As we approached Newlands church George was there. Calling out “Nice work! Do you wanna change or it’s going to be tight isn’t it?” I didn’t change. Not because it would have wasted 5 minutes, but more through the feeling that I just could not be arsed to stop. I didn't need the extra cushioning of road shoes, or the comfort of a dry t-shirt and shorts. Fuck it. Finish it now.

We jogged well along the lanes towards Keswick with Jacob still chatting away brightly. I started to realise that bar getting hit by a meteor, I’d done it. There was a mild internal battle to not stop and walk once I realised that, and I stubbornly maintained a jog for the most part until the outskirts of town. I think I asked to walk as we passed through the rugby pitches and Jacob said “nah, come on lad, run it in in style, you’re there now”.

I was suddenly gripped by the urge to tell him I wasn't a tourist. This guy was born here, his Granddad ran fell races, and here he was helping a Southern softy achieve the holy grail of fell running. I told him how my brother had given me Feet in the Clouds (another cliche!), and how deeply I’d loved the Lakes and how many Wainwrights I’d done. He didn’t ask for my CV but I felt like I needed to earn his approval and respect. Even in the wider context of my climbing and mountaineering lifes ambitions, The Round meant a great deal to me, and reading the book well over a decade ago - of course I never imagined I’d be running up Main Street into Market Square with Jacob. I thanked him sincerely and felt a lump in my throat. I could see the Moot Hall. There was no one there, it was still and drizzling in an early morning ghost town. I didn’t need or want a fanfare, but I would miss sharing the moment with George, and Neil. Then I saw George’s van and stopped because I thought he’d gone into the only open shop it was parked next to. But he was sheltering from the rain in one of the ginnels and called out to me, revealing that he was also filming on his phone. Jacob stopped running and filmed too, speaking for the camera as I jogged to touch the Moot Hall alone: “23hours, 22 minutes! And he’s going all the way to the top!”

I touched the door and turned and slumped on the railing. I think the most profound thing I had to say was “fuck my old boots”. George and Jacob seemed amused, and I took a few deep sighs and then stopped my Strava clock. Then as I came down the steps, Neil and Maureen came around the corner. I felt a bit of tension, Neil said to George “I thought you’d said half 6, I wanted to be here?” and I interrupted the fact that I’d been faster than expected by asking him if he was okay, and then sharing a slightly stiff hug. He said well done, but was obviously upset. He will have been exhausted as well. Broken and demoralised. I felt awfully as though I’d let him down. We didn’t stay in the Market Square drizzle for long. Jacob had to get ready for work, the rest of us needed sleep. Neil and Maureen went back to their campsite with a promise to meet for lunch. George and I walked to his van, then drove to our park up. However, although he’d let me in the cab sat on a towel, he made me shower at the back of the van from a newfangled heated water bag hung outside the back doors (stood in my ridiculously expensive S-Lab pants, in the rain, in broad daylight up a Keswick side road) before he would allow me into the back of his sparkling new van and the luxury of a lay down on a mattress under a quilt. Not my finest hour and he chuckled away as I goose-bumped and shivered and soaped the mud off my legs and feet and the sweat off my hairy bits.

I was asleep within seconds, but then crazily woke up at 11am after only 3-4 hours sleep. Perhaps the caffeine. I went on my phone until George woke up at 12:30. After some replying to messages and looking at photos, George made coffee’s and then we walked into town to stretch my legs. The forecast was grim (we got the only ‘nice’ day all week) so rather than hang out in the Lakes for a couple of days, he preferred to head home to his girlfriend and who was I to argue. No way could I climb or run anyway, even if it was bluebird. We got a snack, then met Neil and Maureen at the Rhegged Centre services to say a final goodbye, swap some kit that we’d each ended up with, and then hit the road South. I honestly struggled to stay upright when walking. People were looking. My legs were in a shocking state. I dropped a 50p coin on the tarmac and had to leave it there.

In the days that followed, a friend who lives in Keswick called Rachel made a comment on my facebook page that has stayed with me ever since. She said: “I’m so thrilled you’ve done this. And I’m happier still that you’ve done it with support rather than as the solo attempt you made a few years ago. I think the Bob Graham Round is really about people, and if you do it on your own you kind of miss the point. x”.

There’s no doubt, that looking back at my Round the overpowering emotions of the day, were of the incredibly kind and generous people that made it happen. Friends who gave a day or more out of their lives to help facilitate my silly little ambition becoming a reality. All of the 1500+ miles of training would have counted for nought without the ten people that helped me achieve my goal. Some others during training who gave advice and tips as well, and the messages of support that came through via the texts and messages that George collected. As the days ticked by afterwards, and the extremes of fatigue melancholy faded, I sent little individual messages of thanks to my team that only solidified what I’d felt on the day and what Rachel explained so succinctly. The Bob Graham Round isn’t about miles, or height gain, a certificate or an internal battle with yourself to overcome adversity or fatigue, it’s about a love for the fells and sharing a grand day out with amazing selfless people who care similarly deeply. If you’re thinking of it, do it, it will be one of the best days of your life.

IMG-7471.jpg









The Bob Graham Round: Training

Part 1. Training. How to train for the legendary British mountain Round; if you’re a mere mortal 20 mile a week stroller

IMG_6574.jpg

This essay has been a few years in the making, and I’ve a lot to say, so it’s going to take 2 main parts. After a brief introduction, I’ll do my best to structure it into:

  1. Training: What I did physically, and mentally in the 8 months preceding my attempt.

  2. The Round: The not-to-be-underestimated pre-run organisational logistics, and a bit about the execution - What it took to fool my legs, and more importantly my brain, into getting round and back to Keswick.

So, my history with the BG is a bit of a cliche I suppose. I fell in love with mountains in 2003. My early years of obsession were a voyage of discovery. I didn’t know what scrambling was or what fell running was, and I started running in the mountains [of Wales] initially, out of a child like enthusiasm. I vividly remember scrambling up Tryfan and then Bristly Ridge and looking at The Glyders and thinking ‘I could tag all these tops before I drive home if I start jogging’. No-one else seemed to be jogging but I was puppy keen, and so I ran, basically greedily - to be able to enjoy more views. A few years later my brother gave me the legendary book: Feet in the Clouds (Richard Askwith); which tells the story of an obsessed Southern softy attempting the fabled Bob Graham Round. After that, I got involved with friends’ attempts and supported on all the stages over the next few years; but always thought a full Round to be way beyond my capabilities. Basically I was always totally shattered by running a single Leg, so the prospect of 2, 3, or more, felt completely preposterous. I also thought I could ‘put off’ an attempt until I was 42 (like Bob Graham). But I was so sure I’d be unable to get round successfully, I was extremely reluctant to ask friends for support, and thus my put-it-off plan also morphed into a naive solo run daydream. For this extreme numbskullery, I did what I now consider to be a galactically stupid amount of training (about 8-9 runs over ~2 months, building my max distance, quickly and painfully, up to a limped-finish 34 miles in non-mountainous South Devon)… And then, for the 24hours of my 42nd birthday, I just went for it; and, surprise surprise, failed. After that, after emphatically confirming my worst imaginings, and then some (I collapsed, embarrassingly swooning over in front of people on Scafell Pike), I’d basically binned the idea and consigned it to memory as one of life’s more humiliating follies, until an old school friend and fairly handy road runner - Neil - contacted me and said we should make it our joint goal for 2019. Train properly, be dedicated and recce the stages together each month, and support one another. Commit everything to it for 8-9 months and make a bucket list ambition actually happen. He sounded confident. With a degree of reticence I agreed. I was still very dubious of exactly how far we’d get, but I wanted it enough to put the hard yards in upfront and see if that process did put me in with a credible chance.

Neil getting wet feet for my photo

Neil getting wet feet for my photo

So here’s the Part 1 I promised at the start, here’s what I did from January to August:

Training:

January. As stated in the subtitle, I was a 20-25 mile a week jogger. Doing the same trail runs through the woods, the same 10k loops near home, and the occasional longer run for variety. To start this project I’d picked the arbitrary amount of 40mpw as a starting point (I’d considered that to be the amount of miles that real ‘runners’ ran. If you were running 40mpw, you were a runner. I thought). Never mind that this was nearly doubling my current miles, if I was going to do this I was going to have to up the ante, so my plan started there. Up the miles. And the height gain. Let’s do some hills. See how January goes and then build methodically from there. Laughably, I’ve got an Exercise Science honours degree.

South West Coast Path. Photo: George Malkin

South West Coast Path. Photo: George Malkin

I had a rough weekly routine of: 1 x Long Run (>20k), 1 x Steady 12k, 1 x Hill reps, 1 x faster ~10k (this routine was kept deliberately organic and flexible and I tried to run to feel, but I also tried to get those ingredients into most weeks for variety and specificity). But another pattern emerged too. After a week of this I felt like Superman. After 2 weeks of this I was utterly, utterly exhausted. Then, in weeks 3 and 4 I seemed to catch up with the overload and consolidate. By the end of January I had done 160 miles (I stopped on the 28th and took 2-3 rest days somewhat intuitively, before increasing the load in February. Throwing hills into the mix meant I’d accrued 5,300 metres of height gain (tracked on Strava, so a figure not counting any steep walk ins for climbing trips (there weren’t many, truth be told)). This, even factoring in when I’d trained - what I’d considered at the time to be quite hard - for Tromsø SkyRace, was the most height gain I’d ever achieved in one month of running. So January felt like quite a full on month.

Dartmoor on my doorstep

Dartmoor on my doorstep

February. 45mpw equated to 180 miles this month, with no luxurious back to back rest days. Thanks Calendar. As well as that round-numbers incremental increase; I’d decided to aim for a jump in height gain too. I wondered if I could get 6000m vert in February? Still psyched, I attacked the month. Starting to make hill reps a priority, I created little loops at my favourite forest trails that would basically go up, and down, and up and down. I stuck to the 45 weekly miles and was thrilled to see the height gain grow and by the 28th, I’d done 181 miles, and 6,900m height gain. I was tired, but good. Determined. Building cautiously, I added another variable into the mix: In March I wanted to increase my longest run distance. In January that had been 25miles, in February it was 31. It felt achievable to beat that in March.

From a glorious Nantlle Ridge out and back with Libby

From a glorious Nantlle Ridge out and back with Libby

March. Progress is never linear. My first fail. 50 miles a week was starting to become quite time consuming. I became a little disorganised around work and was scrambling to get runs in sometimes. Twice arriving at Sunday night having only squeezed 30 miles in so far that week and ergo needing to do 20 to stay on target. And of course it would be raining, and dark, and I’d be at home - meaning the monotony of pavement pounding, for 3 hours. Grim times. Other weeks I’d be working away from home, or a 24h shift would mean I’d only have 6 days to squeeze the miles into. I was doing great with the hill reps though, and racked up another PB of over 8,100m vert. But my long run was a relatively paltry 18 miles. I wasn’t too disheartened but I did know my time management and planning needed to be better. For April therefore, I planned my upcoming week each Sunday night and wrote the sessions down beforehand (Tuesday I’m at work 8-6 so I’ll only really have time for a 10k that evening; off Sunday so Long Run then; etc), and I stuck to them like glue, come whatever weather.

Helvellyn range in a hooley. 40mph gusts not pictured

Helvellyn range in a hooley. 40mph gusts not pictured

March was also our first trip to The Lakes. We’d said we’d build up on stages the same way we built up on mileage and vertical gain; so for March we ran Leg 1 on a Saturday (only just on 23h pace) and Leg 2 on Sunday (very windy and very cold we sacked off Fairfield and Seat Sandal), but were satisfied with our double days in the fells. After this we’d try back to back legs, on back to back days. NB: ‘Doubles’ were occasionally used as a replacement for an LSR. If I did that, I’d try to go slightly further (in total), and to run them late & early, so as to get the combined mileage into a 24h period.

April. 55 miles a week now. For me that was somewhere around 7-8 hours of running. A little more than an hour a day. Every day. But take a day out for a rest day, and/or a 24h shift at work when you physically can’t run, and that number is then squeezed into 5-6 days, and consequently the average miles per day goes up. But by now I’d caught up on the chasing my tail practiced through March; and I was much more ‘on it’ with my weekly planning and this helped hugely. We didn’t get to The Lakes this month because we couldn’t both get the same time off work. We had run there on the last weekend of March anyway so we booked our next trip for the first weekend of May (Neil was travelling from Scotland, I was travelling from Devon). My monthly figures were great though, 237 miles (when I’d been aiming for 220), 9,760m height gain (a 4th consecutive personal best), and a max distance back at 30miles again. I experienced the same fatigue/energy pattern of: First week - this feels great! Second week - I am baggage! Third and fourth weeks - acclimatising to the volume.

Neil tells people he’s 5’6”

Neil tells people he’s 5’6”

May. A new problem. Not 60 miles a week, no. Not working away from home on an intensive job requiring 18h days and sleeping in my car, for 9 days, no, not really that either. I treated that working time like a long ‘rest week’ (it wasn’t that restful!), as I hadn’t had one so far in the year. My legs were grateful, even if my eye bags weren’t. But the new problem was that Neil was struggling in the fells. Our May Lakes weekend involved Leg 3 (the longest leg), crossing not only the Scafell massif which is rocky and technical from around Rosset Pike to Wasdale; but then Leg 4 which is similarly rocky and bouldery. And road-runner Neil was totally snookered by the asymmetric ground. And I mean like really slow. Tottering like someone who might fall at any moment, arms out ready to arrest a fall. I was able to balance on the tops of boulders and kind of skip along fairly briskly. Neil is a way faster and far stronger runner than me but I found myself standing still, sometimes for several minutes at a time waiting for him to catch up. Each time I turned around and saw him hundreds of metres behind me, my heart sunk. I could maybe do a mile of this type of ground 5 minutes faster than him. Roughly. He might be a bit quicker than me up a hill (I was a bit quicker than him on descents), and on straight flat ground he’s slightly faster than me; However, while most of this mild variation evens itself out, on this ground he was worryingly slow. We discussed it and I urged him to make time at home to specifically address this weakness. Don’t play your strengths, work your weakness, for the bigger easier gains. Get out on some Munro’s - even if it’s only hiking, and practice on technical ground, practice it like a skill. He said he would.

Tom, with Neil a hundred metres back due to the slightly more technical trail

Tom, with Neil a hundred metres back due to the slightly more technical trail

Because I’d lost 11 days of May to a work-gig, my monthly numbers were way down, but on the other 20 days in the month I’d tried to work the volume out Pro-Rata, and ended up clocking up: 112 miles, 5,648m height gain, and a long run of 22 miles. The two stages in The Lakes tested us both. Leg 3 really slapped us (Neil particularly was chastened) and getting up for Leg 4 & 5 on the Sunday was very hard, but we made it work just about. Starting groggily, we’d warmed up and ran quite well towards the end of that day, and felt comforted that we’d dealt with the emotional challenge of running when being knackered, and still managed a sizeable mountain run.

Neil approaching the top of Bowfell

Neil approaching the top of Bowfell

June. Back on it with a vengeance. No week away working, it was summer now too so gorgeous weather, and in fact it was only 9-10 weeks until our slated attempt dates, which meant I tried to kick on with real vehemence. But 65 miles per week now was a genuine time drain. Because of the height gain - by now I had created my own Strava segments that were Vertical Kilometers, which were great for vert but not great for fast pace (or enjoyment) which meant quite slow miles - some weeks I was spending well over 10 hours on my feet. Arduous hours spent not exactly pleasure cruising. This churning was draining emotionally and physically. At that stage, with time at work, and spent asleep, it started to feel like I wasn’t doing much else. Work, run, sleep, repeat. Friends were asking me to come climbing and when I did it was a shambolic waste of time where I was too exhausted to pull on. My legs were heavier. I’d noticed my thighs and calves get wider when I put my trousers on or off. My hips were tight. And I was just so, so tired.

Our June trip to the Lakes was now about back to back stages, on back to back days. Every month when I’d upped the ante, I’d been slightly intimidated, worried how I’d deal with yet more miles and hills, but I’d managed to cope. Each month I then looked back at previous months questioning what I’d been worried about! No getting away from the volume now though, I really felt like all I was doing was running. The nice weather meant I was missing out on fun climbing trips and I started to begrudge the running time and commitment. But I was near enough to the end, and far enough invested throughout the year, with 6 months training time in the bank, to want to see it through.

IMG_5957.jpg

It did though, emotionally, feel very spartan. Get it done. Put these miles in the bank now, finish the project, and you’ll never have to churn up this demoralising VK ever again. The thought of failing spurred me on through some of those reps. Paradoxically though, I still wasn’t even that confident: our monthly recce weekend trips had left me pooped after every Leg; I really had absolutely no confidence in being able to manage 5 consecutive Legs. Our months stated goal to do 2 consecutive Legs, on back to back days (actually the whole Round in two halves, pausing at Langdale), felt like a real pass/fail test. If we can’t manage that (i.e: if we can’t manage it in 2 days with a pub dinner and an 8h sleep midway), then we should pull the plug and stop kidding ourselves.

On the Saturday it was 28C. Neil had arrived late on Friday night, I’d been cross with him for this, as consequently we’d not eaten or pitched our tents on time and we needed an early start, meaning I’d eventually slept less than 5 hours, when I’d wanted 9. As the day warmed up I melted fast. Feeling fine on Leg 1 (22h pace), Clough Head brought me literally to my knees. The humidity sapped me of energy and pride and somewhere amongst the Dodds I decided a nice sit down was needed. Without even telling Neil, with my mood sinking correlated to the thermometer rising, I sat down. As I was sitting down I felt a powerful urge to curl up on my side, and I gave in to that. I remember thinking there were some little balls of sheep shit actually quite close to my face, and then the next thing I can remember is Neil shouting “Mark! MARK! Are you okay?!” I opened my eyes and sat up to find him running towards me looking angry. “You bastard I thought you’d had a heart attack for fuck sakes!” “I fell asleep”. He was incredulous, but I couldn’t fight the overwhelming lethargy. A caffeine gel did temporarily rouse me, but the rest of Leg 2 was past in a walk-jog haze, a whinge-fest, refilling water from streams as we’d drunk all our rations way before half way. We (again) bailed off the Helvellyn range early, again missing out Fairfield, and then trudged wearily to a pub near Grasmere, and guzzled a pint of Coke and a pint of shandy. Then walked along the road to Grasmere in a sulk and ate back to back ice-creams before a pride-swallowing taxi ride to collect our stashed car at Langdale (we’d intended to do the entire Round in two halves, over the 2 days). Woeful.

Learning that sleep deprivation and humidity were kryptonite. Done in on the Dodds.

Learning that sleep deprivation and humidity were kryptonite. Done in on the Dodds.

That evening, with my tail between my legs, was the closest I came to pulling the plug. “Mate, I can’t even do 2 Legs”. On the Sunday we ran Legs 4 and 5 actually pretty well (it was 18C and overcast). I was really torn. We’d failed our own legitimacy test. But back at home I asked some trusted friends. They unanimously said, ‘still go for it. Everyone has bad days and it was just too hot really’. Monthly numbers were good: 212 miles (only averaging 55mpw because we’d failed to complete the right-at-the-end of month Round-over-2-days). But the other weeks had been 65mpw Pro-Rata. A whopping 12,783m height gain. 30m longest run. Decision time…

July. After we’d got back to Keswick on our June Lakes trip. We’d seen a club (Dark Peak Fell Runners) at the Moot Hall cheering in 2 of its members that they’d supported round. We got talking to some of them about our own training, and their own Rounds: Any advice then, were we close to where we needed to be? Neil’s volume was amazing, his weekly mileage averaging around 80 miles. Although his height gain was only a little over 50% of mine, and his technical running still disconcertingly slow. ‘The Completers’ we spoke to quickly identified this and said to him “You’re easily fit enough and stamina won’t be an issue, but you need to get out on rocky ground. Go hiking in the mountains and practice rough terrain”. “That’s what Mark says” he replied, infuriatingly. He said he would. With 6 weeks to go he simply had to address that weakness. If we were to go for it as a pair, there was no way I’d have the luxury of standing around for up to half an hour or perhaps more, per leg, on Legs 3 and 4. But after saying at The Moot Hall that he would address this issue, the next morning as we got in our cars to drive home, he said “I’m going to go back and get some fast half’s in, get my confidence back” “WHAT?! But that’s the last thing you need to do! Mate: it won’t make any difference whatsoever if you can run 6:30 miles or 6:25 miles if you’re then doing 25:00 minute miles up by Scafell. Better to concentrate on making those slow miles faster. Bigger gains if you can run those miles in 15 minutes or less”. “Yea maybe you’re right, we’ll see”. Yea. Maybe mate. Me, and Tom, and The Completers.

The Completers advice to me was: “Just ignore the hot day and pray for cooler temps on your Round. What I did was 3000m height gain per week, from 8 weeks out til the run, and that worked a charm. I cruised round taking photos and having a crack with my mates. 3000m a week. 8 weeks. Thats your recipe.” I loved the simplicity of that, it wasn’t far off what I’d built up to already. Getting that height gain by it’s very nature would put quite some miles in the bank and he’d said it with such a confidence too that it felt like a sort of magic formula. I decided I’d make that July’s main goal. Then the other thing I built into July’s plan was a golden nugget that came from a Kendal based runner that I’d met in May. A fell runner since school, Lakes born and bred, she’d looked at my training plan and sagely said, ‘Your weakness is long days. You’re doing the volume, and the height gain, but even your 30 mile plus runs are only taking you 6 hours or so. You need to do some 12 hour days and think about time not distance. Even if it’s only hiking, just go out and keep moving and make a really long day on your feet’. This also rang true. I kind of knew that the BG wasn’t about running and running, it was about stamina hiking. So for July, as well as the height gain, I actually eased back a bit on the sheer volume of miles and decided to make 2-3 really long days happen.

The first of these was when the penny dropped.

I’d decided to run across Dartmoor and back. On my doorstep and middle of summer it was logistically easy enough to have a long day on hilly tracks. Park the car early and do a long out and back. If you get tired, just walk. My longest run of the year so far was still only 31 miles, and the BG was 67. Sooner or later I needed to run 40, or 50 miles. So why not try that in the comfort of home terrain. But the miles and hours on my feet were only a part of the problem. Despite having hill reps on speed-dial, I was still telling myself, daily, that I wasn’t up to it. This internal monologue had been going on not just since January, but from years before. Since I read Feet in the Clouds I think. This negative attitude wasn’t just related to the BG either, I did this with big rock climbs too. I guess I’m just a bit of a glass-half-empty kind of guy. Which I hate, but was forced to face up to. It’s a dichotomy to be spending so many hours thrashing myself up and down hills, investing time and energy towards a goal I wanted very badly, but at the same time undermining all that effort with talking myself down. You’re not strong enough. You’ll bonk. You need too much sleep. You can’t cope with blisters. What if your knees hurt. Or you cramp. You’re going to waste your friends’ time, asking them to go all that way and support you and at some stage you’re going to quit and let them all down. You’re fit, but you’re just not cut out for this.

I know that doesn’t make sense and I’m not about to delve into the deeper psychology of ‘why’ I’m a bit bonkers and pathetic, but that’s the bare-naked truth of the situation, and sometime in July I resolved to fix it. I set off from Belstone at 7am heading South.

IMG_6865.jpg

No map, the forecast was bluebird (too warm, again), and I knew the way well (I’ve done what locals and Marines call ‘The 30 Miler’ many times), carrying food and drink to last me all day, my plan was to run to the ‘South Gate’ at Ivybridge. Crossing the whole National Park is 31 miles. By 9.15 ish I was at Postbridge. Already too hot, and dripping in sweat, I’d drunk all of my fluid (I had reserves of chlorine tablets to allow me to safely drink from streams), so I popped into the Postbridge Post Office Stores to buy more. I bought 3 litres and immediately drank one. Put one into my soft flasks on the front of my race vest, and one into the back of my pack. “What time do you close?” “5pm.” “Okay cool, see you later then”. I forged on. It was roasting. I felt good but kept repeating that old Fast Show sketch: ‘Giggsy-wiggsy Scorchio’. Up on Ryders Hill, deep into the south Moor, and now 20 miles from my car, I kept trotting south but began to feel that serious ‘committed’ feeling that meant ‘each mile you run now, you’re going to have to run back’. Which is true from mile 1 of course, but felt especially pertinent at 20/40, 25/50 and so on. At 25 miles I was pretty close to the South Gate and going okay, BUT, I had been stopping to fill fluids up, and I had been gradually slowing from a run, to a jog, to a scurry, to a jog a bit walk a bit; and more importantly the time was getting on. I didn’t know exactly how long it would take me to get back to the Postbridge Stores, but I desperately didn’t want to miss my only sanctuary for food and drink in the 25 miles between me and my car on a scorcher of a day. I was now down to drinking from streams, and had one bag of nuts and 2 Babybells left. At 27 miles I lost my nerve and turned around. I could physically see the South Gate, and if I clocked up 54 miles, a double marathon, I’d be thrilled with my ‘long slow day’. That would also qualify as my ‘12 hours on my feet’ that had been recommended. Between miles 30 and 40 a slow degradation occurred. I forced myself to churn out a jog, really not wanting to risk the shop closing before I got there, but once I knew I’d definitely make it, my jog became a walk that was like a death march. I think I walked entirely the last 4 miles to the shop, and some of that was on gentle downhills. I had absolutely nothing in the tank and my spirit was very low. I got to the shop having done 40 miles. But while I was in the queue for my Lucozade and Coca-cola I was woozy. Physically swaying. The shop keeper spotted this and eyeballed me carefully. “Made it back then?” “Just about.” “You look like you should sit down” “Yea. I’m fucked” “Ice cream?” “Now you’re talking. What flavours have you got?” “There’s the list” “Rum n Raisin please”. “Go and sit down, I’ll bring it out to you”. I kicked my shoes and socks off and sat in the shade. My calves were doing a weird pulsing thing like an alien was inside them. While I marvelled at this and burped on the coke I was glugging, I got talking to two bikers and the shop keeper brought my ice cream out. Triple scoop. What a bloody hero. That ice cream changed my life.

I was sat talking to the bikers about calling a taxi, they told me if they’d had an extra helmet they could have dropped me back at my car. We chatted while I drank 2 litres of very sugary water, and ate my ice cream dream. The shop closed. One of the bikers went to investigate a pub dinner. I pulled my trainers back on. Put my 3rd litre of fluid into my bag and told myself that even if I walked 13 miles I could surely walk that in 3 hours (there was about 3.5 hours left of daylight, and I hadn’t packed a head torch). I said goodbye to the bikers and walked to the stile leading onto the North Moor. The first field being flat I thought I’d see if I could raise a jog. I could. This felt pretty miraculous and I carried this on where the track met the river and the open Moor. Then I walked up a hill. Then I jogged some plateau higher up. Then I sat down and took a photo. The temperature had dropped 5-10 degrees, the evening was warm but much more overcast. I felt 75% revived by my fluids (In total I drank 9 litres during the day) and the ice cream and grew increasingly confident that I’d get back to the car before dark. As my spirits rose I kept up the little bursts of walk a minute jog a minute, walk to that rock, jog to that rock. 45 miles past, 50 miles past (I was childishly proud of that when Strava announced it. Never ever gone that far before), and I came off the Moor and down to my car hearing Strava announce 53 miles, in 13 hours something, and sad as it may seem I let out an audible “Yes! Get the fuck in there” celebratory blurt and considered punching the air. I was chuffed. I’d never had a ‘second wind’ before, but whatever you call it, I’d proved to myself that I could keep on trucking. I’d always just stopped before, whenever I was goosed or done in. But even though it was kind of essential, my hand was forced in order to get back to my car, so I’d made myself do it, I was also running/moving better at 50 miles than I was at 40. This day stayed important to me for the next few weeks, and has, ever since, it felt like a real mental turning point in doing the Round. It seems bizarre that in 8 months of dedicated training that I only actually felt like ‘I might just pull this off’ in the seventh month, but there we have it. That’s how it was. I did another long day out in Snowdonia in the same fashion (the same week I broke my Horseshoe PB too, going Sub 2 which I was also proud of); but shorter, and in wet and wild conditions, something around 35 miles I think, but slow, another speed hike for the sake of having 10-11 hours on my feet. And that essentially completed my 8 months of training.

Sub 2 Horseshoe. My favourite run in the UK

Sub 2 Horseshoe. My favourite run in the UK

I sent out a Facebook status request for pacers and support - a public beg for help which I had been very, very reluctant to commit to doing - if I wasn’t sure it was a real possibility. I was still nervous even as people replied and I narrowed down the dates Neil and I had blocked out of our diaries - by selecting the day that the most pacers and support crew could agree to. That was all in place by the end of July.

So the first week of August was a ‘drop week’, and the second week was a full on taper. In those weeks I shopped, made lists, sent out Group Chats, made a schedule, and was basically a bit OCD about the logistics and organisation (control freaks like things they can control), I’ll talk about that in Part 2.

Neil and I argued online about him not having done enough training on technical ground. He said he was expecting me to be slower by the time we got to Scafell so he didn't think he’d hold me back much by that stage (and considering I hadn’t managed to run Legs 1 and 2 without quitting, he also thought - and understandably so - that it was a bit rich me preaching to him that he had a weakness).

We argued several times, and that’s unusual for me, especially with a good friend. Looking back now I think it was exacerbated by the stress of nerves and also my first ever surge in confidence. I’d started to think ‘I bloody well will get round this thing and after the time and effort I’ve put in, I’ll be buggered if I’m going to wait for you just because you haven’t done what everyone’s said you need to do’.

In one of our arguments I said it out loud for the first time: “Oh I’m getting round all right. I’d need to get hit by a Meteor to stop me”. I surprised myself saying that, but I felt confident after I did.

Spreadsheet OCD

Spreadsheet OCD













The South West Coast Path - 4. North Cornwall

You can run away from anything, but you can't run away from yourself

Todays tune.

Did you ever meet someone whose mind you could read? Just like that, as easy as breathing? I don’t mean ‘I knew you’d want to see the dessert menu’; I mean their whole life. Childhood, schooling, travels, career, relationships, thoughts and feelings. When you know all of that in an instant, when the blink of an eye yields a split second glance, and a subtle facial expression can tell you essays and volumes of stories and conversations, and you know all of it, immediately and innately. Like the fastest processing computer, or the greatest chess Grand Master. All the reasoning and understanding, history and empathy, rationalising and moralising, all done, in that instant, and the answer, is Yes. From then on that chemistry has fostered another level of connection. Conversations still happen of course, but they’re largely redundant however fun they are. They're garnish. Everything is already spoken. Sitting and staring and knowing is all that’s required now. That’s the end of your life as you knew it, and your first steps into a larger world.

Kenidjack

Kenidjack

Rounding Lands End was a symbolic moment for this journey. The whole of the southern path done, every delicious metre from Studland to Lands End. The hand drawn red pencil line on my map satisfyingly complete all along the southern coast to the very most westerly tip of our glorious island. Not only geographically and physically but emotionally turning the corner, hopeful and expectant, it meant hopefully having the prevailing winds behind me for the remainder of the path all the way to Minehead. The expectation of some of Cornwall’s most iconic sights lay ahead, the atmosphere of this ship-wrecking coastline, imbued with the pioneering character of explorers, gazing at the Atlantic to what lies beyond, and also the metaphorical sight of the finish line for the first time: I was now running to Minehead. I’d turned the corner towards ‘home’ and The End.

Beautiful Sennen Cove passes before you know it. What a place to live that must be. I’d like to run a little coffee shop there. It would maybe sell creams teas too. A swim in the sea before breakfast, a run or a climb in the evening, then sit and stare at the ocean until my eyes have had enough.

Cape Cornwall and Kenidjack follow. The crossing tides here change the atmosphere again. The power of the Atlantic Ocean hangs heavy in the air, and then the tone alters yet again at the abandoned mines and industrial resonance of Bottalack and Levant.

Levant

Levant

It feels bleak here. Exposed and blustery, even on a fine day. You can well imagine the buffeting in the winter months. Harsh days and bracing conditions in which to live and work. In my memory this stretch of path is all gorse and heather. Thrift in spring. Low lying beaten down grasses that acquiesce in lee of the southwesterlies that ravage Cornwall incessantly through the seasons.

Man’s influence on the landscape is obvious but it still feels deeply old here. Then yet wilder still as I pass my favourite climbing crags of Bosigran and Gurnards Head, where the granite stands golden and proud, defiantly facing down the wind and water in a battle of aeons. By the time you arrive at the dichotomy of St. Ives - a truly beautiful town that’s a pilgrimage for artists, surfers and writers, yet simultaneously ruined by hordes of tourists and seagulls - you’ve already made a journey that gives you such a myriad of flavours, it’s hard to believe there can be so much more left in North Cornwall, so much that it still has yet to give. But it’s only your first steps into a larger world.

St. Ives

St. Ives

So you connect with this person and you know implicitly, without question or debate, that - living embodiment of all the cliches - you’re somehow meant to be together. Simultaneously it’s obvious and astonishing that a soul mate exists. A whole greater than the sum of its parts.

“I can read your mind”, you tell her. “I know what you’re thinking too”, she replies. What next then? With a fact as strong as the knowledge that the sun will rise and fall, there is no need to ask the normal questions of whether it’s right to live together - too early? - or right to marry or right to have children and create a family together, all those questions are utterly redundant in the face of the fact that you were somehow born for one another. You’re sat in this room holding hands and staring and there is a palpable sense of what-the-fuck-is-going-on-here magic in the air. Can you feel that? What next? Where do we go from here with this intangible entity? Well I can tell you what next; what next is you celebrate it. Lottery winners pop corks. You celebrate it a lot. Only pausing for prolonged periods of sitting and staring, or saying something to break the silence. Sometimes one of you will talk, sometimes gibbering streams of consciousness, sometimes nervous in the presence of the elephant in the room: that here is a person who can read my mind. The other person sits quietly and smiles sweetly at your nervousness and is calm and accepting in the face of the overpowering elephant. They’re far more serene in this state of delirium. To the panicker this is like they’ve signed up for a free-fall parachute jump, but then, without warning it’s happening right now! Not with a week to prepare (you’ve had your whole life to prepare), it’s happening now, this is happening, this is what everyone talks about, every movie, fairy tale, and song lyric and it's sudden and present and now. The real McCoy as they say. Fear and ecstasy mixed in a heady cocktail of speechlessness - or gibbering - take your pick. A free-fall for sure, miraculously transported from your sofa feeling all brave but then with immediacy BAM! you’re falling. The drop a rollercoaster makes your tummy do, but endless, never coming out of the dive, you don’t know whether to scream and laugh or hold your breath. All the while sitting holding hands in a quiet hotel room. Sit and stare and celebrate. Repeat ad infinitum, because this is magical rapture.

So fast now I'm overtaking dogs. Small and ageing dogs. Godrevy

So fast now I'm overtaking dogs. Small and ageing dogs. Godrevy

Cornwall has magic in abundance. Walk the sands at Godrevy and tell me there’s not something funny going on. I don’t really believe in Ley Lines but the atmosphere is just so tangible. Hairs stand up. How? Electricity? Why does that happen? It’s a beach, just like Long Sands, just like Whitsands and countless gorgeous others, but holy cow there’s something in the air here. You can taste it. Running through here, my thoughts leap as they always do: cursing my slow minutes per mile and how tired I am already on this section; how long until I can justifiably eat my sandwich; is that the tide hitting the rocks at the end of the beach meaning I'll have to double all the way back and then take the more arduous dune path? These thoughts run like streams. But then it stops you, physically stops you in your tracks and makes you pause. I’m not a tree hugging hippy, but it somehow has you coming to a halt, looking round corners, in rock pools, behind sea stacks, wondering what the sound of silence is and why you have goosebumps and flippin’ ‘eck what is the science behind this? Other people can feel this too, right? I look around for a passerby, and I make eye contact with a woman in her mid 70’s, walking with a dog lead in her hand and a non-existent dog, for some reason she strikes me as a local, and she smiles at me knowingly. She has clearly read my mind.

Ultra-violet skies at Porthreath

Ultra-violet skies at Porthreath

The bliss of being present in this moment is only equalled in impact by the tragic feeling that it has ended all too soon. Not just the hour or the day, but the entire union. It is over and you can’t go back. Always being conscious that the next time was the last time, and that from the very start you are always ending. Stolen time that is so spellbinding it has to be lived to be understood, it has to be relished and savoured, and you know that it can’t last but it is also never, ever enough. It is simply not enough to treasure the memory of a perfect time, be that one perfect day and night or a year of magic and delirious happiness. Keats said a thing of beauty is a joy forever, but it ends and it leaves a painful void. I want the time over and I can’t have it. I can wallow briefly in the cherished memories but I cannot create more. I think of different things to have said or done, but the time is past. I wish I could go back and change things, but it is gone with such crushing finality. In the moment I was present and focussed, aware, there was forethought and consideration, anticipation and excited planning even. But it wasn’t enough. There was surely more I could have done, not only to relish it but to sustain it. Life had been a rehearsal for this, every prior relationship was some sort training or practice for this, and now was when it really mattered to be the best version of yourself you could possibly be, and because it meant everything, ultimately, you failed. You had life’s winning lottery ticket in your hand and it escaped your grasp. Your heart yearns for that time again, but it is not only gone, it is gone, agonisingly, forever. I find myself questioning what the point is, in future life beyond that?

Chapel Porth doing it’s best Fiji

Chapel Porth doing it’s best Fiji

As you approach the end of this meandering stretch of golden coast, beautiful magical North Cornwall, you approach the border with a deep sadness. What you have just done has been serenely stunning, a joy forever. Being present in that landscape of granite and thrift, ocean and sky, golden hours and god-beams, running along surveying the flora and fauna while skylarks chatter and peregrines hunt and survey you from nearby, you watch them and they watch you, being a part of the land and the wildlife and a part of time itself, has been a very special privilege. But it is over now and you cannot retrace your steps. Did you do it right? Did you make the best of your time? Were you up to the task? You’ll never have that time again, it’s gone. And already that hurts like a grief. I reflect on the little red hand-drawn line on my map at home. It shows I have covered every inch of the Cornish coast now. All of it. Have you been to Penberth? Yep. Have you run through Bedruthan’s Steps (hands down best beach so far)? Yes. Lizard, Sennen, Chapel Porth, Boscastle? Yes, yes, yes, yes. I’ve done it all. On paper I should be sated that I now know Cornwall intimately. On paper I’ve lived and breathed every delicious stride of it, caressed every curve and tasted it’s sweetness in my mouth. It is better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all, so the saying goes. But the reality is that I’ve only just brushed the surface. I didn’t take sufficient time to dwell and investigate Nanjizzle. Even though Gwithian gave me pause to wander through Godrevy’s rock pools, the bays and coves surrounding Portreath were too numerous to explore, I haven’t seen Booby’s and Mother Ivey’s in a big swell, or felt Winter’s icy grasp on Whipsiderry. Even though I was present in the moment and bathed in the bliss of just being here and now, gazing with eyes of wonder, I am still utterly, irrevocably heartbroken that it is over.

And so nearly full circle back to Devon. Returning to The Shire. I’ve run over 500 miles. Onwards now towards the end, which is beginning to feel close. From the beginning it was always ending. Maybe the end will bring a new form of beginning as well.

When in Rome: Upside down wrongness, that still tasted beautifully imperfect once it was in my gob

When in Rome: Upside down wrongness, that still tasted beautifully imperfect once it was in my gob

The South West Coast Path - 3. Dorset

Dorset shouldn't have been an afterthought to me, but it was. Having started without a plan in Devon and then continued West and basically got about 200miles under my belt before it occurred to me to finish the whole behemoth, at that stage, re-starting and doing it in a pure way was sort of frustratingly unappealing. I'd done South Devon and then South Cornwall sequentially in a westward direction and wanted to travel as much of it in continuing order as possible, so rounding Lands End and heading back East in a linear journey. Going 'back' to do Dorset seemed like a bit of a chore. But that was also wrong of me. Dorset clearly isn't an afterthought, it's an utterly spectacular stretch of the trail in it's own right with arguably some of the most iconic sites and views on the entire path.

Naked people 100 metres

Naked people 100 metres

Todays tune:

My band (inspired by "I am Kloot"): http://themidwestquiet.com/

Old Harry's Rocks, a dead end. I checked.

Old Harry's Rocks, a dead end. I checked.

The South West Coast Path National Trail, starts & finishes in Minehead and Studland, depending. Most folk go Minehead to Studland, but there's no set rule, and I'm not most folk. My first few Dorset miles along beautiful Studland beach were a bit surreal - there's a stretch of sand dedicated for Naturists, and as I plodded along in my compression calf sleeves and race vest, I inexplicably got a standing ovation from a medium sized group of fully naked people. Presumably they thought I was embarking on some sort of non-stop epic, rather than a lovely day jogging in the sun towards Lulworth Cove. I was obviously over-dressed.

By this stage I'd progressed from running along the coast to keep fit for trips to the mountains, to dedicated training during the week that was tailored to keeping me fit enough to run along the coast whenever there was a decent forecast on one of my days off. By now I not only wanted to do it all, but after a few bonks and one cramp too many, I now wanted to enjoy each day in relative comfort. I'd started to take pride in the amount I had done, and pride in the length of the sections I was able to do. I'm not breaking any records of course, far from it, but I was also quietly proud when I talked to people about it. Initially I'd been slightly embarrassed to tell people it was taking me 6 hours plus to run a marathon distance - I might be able to do almost half that time on a flat road marathon; but as my experience grew so did my own confidence and my understanding that what I was doing wasn't easy. I began to feel like I could talk to people about it with an element of authority. I'd learnt what it took to run relatively big distances along relatively hilly terrain. It wasn't easy, and as a creaky middle aged plodder, I'd had to train, and had to prepare better - and it might not be the cutting edge of sports science but a few 'marginal gains' - like being well trained, well rested, carrying the right nutrition & hydration, wearing compression tights - well even if they were placebo's they still made up the few percentage points of difference between me conking out at 20 miles, or being able to plough on in relative comfort to 25-30miles. If these marginal gains are good enough for Sir Dave Brailsford, they're good enough for little ol' me. Some of us need all the extra bits of help we can get. 

Chalk cliffs and needles at Old Harry Rocks

Chalk cliffs and needles at Old Harry Rocks

So you leave the naked people and then the slightly denser throng of semi-clothed tourists at Studland proper, and you head west into quieter spaces. Old Harry Rocks is the first well known point of interest. Striking chalk stacks and cliffs that are linked geologically to the Isle of Wight's Needles and Skeleton Ridge. As the Jurassic Coast unfolds between here and Exmouth the rock strata underfoot displays Millenia's worth of changing shifts in the Earth's crust. The variety and change of feel and colour and character is tremendous, and it makes even a lay dimwit like me wonder what forces have made the rocks bend and slant. It's a magnificent feeling really, to be able to have such a variety of character on one long run. Some chalk, limestone, granite, sandstone and so on. It feels different too, and not just underfoot but the smell in the air and the ‘taste’ of the atmosphere, the wildlife, the mood changes; I felt very lucky to experience that.

Dancing Ledge. How now?

Dancing Ledge. How now?

Steps of doom. Three-chuffing-hundred up the other side. Blue language ensued.

Steps of doom. Three-chuffing-hundred up the other side. Blue language ensued.

West of here you pass packed to the gunnels Swanage, then there are seemingly innumerable idyllic bays and coves. It's a pretty affluent area too, so all the posh people who are fortunate enough to have boats came out onto the turquoise waters en masse to taunt me while I sweated up hills. With a real taste now for the well known sites (that seems slightly hollow of me doesn't it, clearly I should want to be exploring new areas, unnamed coves and secret viewpoints not the touristy ones?), I'd start to get excited as I knew I was approaching one of the days 'highlights'. The runs would pass from one of these to the next. 'Next stop Worbarrow Bay'. There were surprises of course, and serenely beautiful stretches I hadn't predicted when tracing the map the night before, or known of in advance from a guidebook description, places I'd get home and immediately look up. But planning the day in advance it was only natural to read a guide and revise the order of the most remarkable locations I'd pass by. The land in between these was day dream land. Time and distance for reveries. From stile to kissing gate, no map or compass needed, only semi-consciously keeping my eyes peeled for an Acorn signpost or a stile in a far corner of a field. The mind was free to wander. Occasionally it would still wander to her. It would do this in training runs as well. Sometimes entire 10k, 15k, 20k evening runs would be dominated, literally every single foot strike from front door to front door, would be saturated with her and memories of us. A sort of grieving that wasn't linear, it was circular. Revisiting the same pain again and again. Replaying scenarios and conversations, or creating new points I'd like to have made in some of our deeper discussions. A fresh bit of evidence I'd like to bring up in a disagreement, a new angle on a debate long since lost, but never being able to air this new thought of course. This wasn't indulgent wallowing either, it was processing and unravelling that would creep up on me stealthily, then I'd suddenly snap back into consciousness in the way that one does when arriving home in the car and wondering if you'd even stopped at traffic lights and junctions as you can't remember any of the journey. It was impossible to talk [to her] so these miles between iconic pit stops where I'd pause to drink, catch my breath and get my own photo just like all the other ones I'd seen, these miles became therapy miles. I'd given up writing cathartic letters or messages to simply get these thoughts out of me. Sometimes that was still necessary at 2am to be able get to sleep, but on the whole these feelings seemed to lay fairly dormant in day to day business now; only really running rampant when I ran. But I didn't mind that. If they're going to terrorise me, they may as well terrorise me while I'm surrounded by nature's beauty, the ocean, and the lands dramatic fight against its insistent gnawing, amongst gentle wildlife that I was becoming more and more atuned to spotting, and set against the sheer joy of devouring large swathes of glorious country.

Definitely not wishing I had a yacht, at Chapman's Pool.

Definitely not wishing I had a yacht, at Chapman's Pool.

Worbarrow Bay. Steeper than it looks

Worbarrow Bay. Steeper than it looks

Arish Mell. Is this the most daunting part of the path? It felt like an Alpine choss-fest to me. The path felt too close to the edge, and the edge felt like a void. Something about the Lulworth Ranges being closed so often made me feel it was neglec…

Arish Mell. Is this the most daunting part of the path? It felt like an Alpine choss-fest to me. The path felt too close to the edge, and the edge felt like a void. Something about the Lulworth Ranges being closed so often made me feel it was neglected and aged, moth-eaten.

 

After the aesthetic sweep of Worbarrow Bay, you soon face the preposterous climb up Arish Mell. This is steep, and I personally found it slightly intimidating. Something about the crest of the cliff, or the texture of the ground, made me feel it might crumble. There are large cracks in the ground that remind me of cornices on winter climbs. It can't be safe. I ran it anyway but it's by far the stand out 'is this dangerous?' moment of all the ground I've covered. Not exactly 'exposed', but my Spider-senses were tingling, for sure. Then Lulworth Cove. If you can ignore the frankly massive car park and thousand tourists, there's no denying this perfectly spherical bay is unique and truly gorgeous to look at. 

Doordling through Dorset. George's sniper trigger finger button pressing skills.

Doordling through Dorset. George's sniper trigger finger button pressing skills.

Company! My dreams of becoming Forrest Gump are not over yet. So lovely to run with a dear friend for a change.

Company! My dreams of becoming Forrest Gump are not over yet. So lovely to run with a dear friend for a change.

Trespassing. I did tidy a discarded lager can from the tippy top of Durdle Door - to help with the Instant Karma.

Trespassing. I did tidy a discarded lager can from the tippy top of Durdle Door - to help with the Instant Karma.

Running away from the scary bit.

Running away from the scary bit.

Then, a near motorway of a path, created to withstand the strain of so many visitors, carries you on towards Durdle Door, one of the jewels in the crown of the UNESCO World Heritage site that runs along the Dorset and East Devon coast. One of the most famous stone arches in the world. I've had a few conversations with friends and family about 'what are the cream of the crop of the paths most stunning locations?'; and with 630 miles worth to choose from, this can be a long debate, but Durdle Door surely must be included in any shortlist. Everyone knows what it looks like, but it still makes you say 'wow' when you meet in person. The next few miles are a real rollercoaster, up and over White Nothe and then Portland comes more clearly into view, as the steepness relents slightly. I remember running right through the beer garden of a very inviting pub, and then running down hill for what seemed a very long way - it felt like an aeroplane coming in to land - before my wheel rubber screeched on the tarmac of the pancake flat runway approaching Weymouth.

George - The Cow Whisperer

George - The Cow Whisperer

He's clearly had enough of this running malarkey. More chalk cliffs near White Nothe

He's clearly had enough of this running malarkey. More chalk cliffs near White Nothe

Riding the rollercoaster. Picture courtesy of David Miller.

Riding the rollercoaster. Picture courtesy of David Miller.

The day I got paid to run a big chunk of the path! Working as a running guide, sweeping back markers on the brilliantly organised Jurassic Coast 100 by Climb South West. If you want to see bloody minded grit and determination: hang out at the back o…

The day I got paid to run a big chunk of the path! Working as a running guide, sweeping back markers on the brilliantly organised Jurassic Coast 100 by Climb South West. If you want to see bloody minded grit and determination: hang out at the back of an Ultra through the night - that's where the real heroes are.

Looking back towards Eype from the Beacon basket.

Looking back towards Eype from the Beacon basket.

From Weymouth to Lyme Regis was a unique section for me: I worked as a running guide for local outdoor company Climb South West. Their Jurassic 100 event lead 200 nutcases all the way from Weymouth, past the wheel-spinning shale of Chesil Beach, through Abbotsbury, and keeps an arrow straight line at gorgeous (like a movie set) West Hill, then via Seatown to fossil hunter heaven and Nerd hotspots Charmouth & Lyme Regis. My job, through the night, was done when arriving at Lyme. I was very tired, but most of the amazing competitors carried on, only having reached half way on their 100k voyage to Exmouth (and with the much steeper second half still to do! *gulp*). A few days later I filled in the final gap in my Dorset afterthought, by running from Lyme Regis, through the brilliant brilliant brilliant Undercliff (don't listen to the Naysayers - this seems to be a Marmite section but it's pure joy to run through, even if the views are a bit samey like being in dense jungle, it's just so much fun). Popping back out into the daylight at Axe Cliffs Golf Club (more funny looks and certainly not the standing ovation I'd got from the nudists), then ambling through lovely retirement paced Seaton, before physically getting back to my original starting point near Beer Head.

I think that's 4 fairly steady runs for Dorset? Studland to Lulworth, Lulworth to Weymouth, Weymouth to Lyme Regis, and Lyme Regis to Beer. For me that meant the little red line on my map now went pleasingly all the way from Studland to Lands End. About 380 miles give or take, and for someone with mild OCD who's almost certainly 'on the scale', really quite satisfying to look at. We live in a beautiful world. From Lands End then North Cornwall, North Devon and Somerset remain for me until Minehead. Hopefully with the prevailing south westerlies off the Atlantic to gently help me to the finish line now. I think I'm running past too many pubs and cafes too. I might start grabbing the odd hot pasty or Cream Tea. I might start talking to people too - especially if my heads going to keep going round in circles and afterthoughts.

Mark

Lyme Regis and Charmouth

Lyme Regis and Charmouth

Seaton (Yes pedants, this is technically Devon)

Seaton (Yes pedants, this is technically Devon)

The South West Coast Path - 2. South Cornwall

So I crossed the border. Foreigners. These heathens put the jam on first, if you can believe that? By the time I arrived at Plymouth, the idea of running the whole path had fully formed in my mind. Having linked all of South Devon I was pretty excited to do the same thing across southern Cornwall and continue my journey, gradually adding to the little, but ever growing red line I was drawing on my home-printed map. The miles from Plymouth to Lands End were not plain sailing though, they taught me a few lessons, and forced me into new strategies and techniques. This section made me look much more closely at training, nutrition, and rehab, and this part of the blog will reflect that, so for anyone who is curious about the basic logistics of kit and training - read on, for those that aren't - there was still a huge amount of beauty (eventually) to continue the inspiration as well. Ultimately, Cornwall did not disappoint.

Today's soundtrack:

A cover of Family of the Year's Hero. Hope you enjoy it! Download on our bandcamp: https://nathanleachmusic.bandcamp.com/track/hero-family-of-the-year-a-cover-by-nathan-and-eva-leach Feel free to like, subscribe, or comment if you so desire. Thanks for watching! Check out my Facebook page: www.facebook.com/NathanAndEva Instagram/Twitter: @n8leach @eva.leach Download/listen to originals: https://soundcloud.com/nathanandeva

Plymouth to Looe was the first leg. I was pretty confident of doing 20+ miles each time by now. Blasé perhaps, maybe even complacent? From a scenic point of view I was a tad - just sayin' - disappointed after the constantly beautiful South Hams. But physically I felt more able to take some big bites out of the overall distance. That's not to say that these first two or three runs weren't pretty:

Freathy. Spot the lone SUP'er

Freathy. Spot the lone SUP'er

Long Sands

Long Sands

Long glorious stretches of near endless golden sand. Surfers strolling from their vans, boards under arms, wetsuits rolled to their waists, barefoot on tarmac. There was quite a nice relaxed atmosphere, and some lovely easier running, just not the drama of the hills of South Devon. It wasn't as punch you in the face spectacular, so for some reason I was disappointed. But maybe that's just me.

"So we are history, a shadow covers me, the sky above ablaze"Lantivet Bay. Been a grey old morning until the cloud past by and the world turned from black and white to colour. So beautiful I stopped chewing my sandwich.

"So we are history, a shadow covers me, the sky above ablaze"

Lantivet Bay. Been a grey old morning until the cloud past by and the world turned from black and white to colour. So beautiful I stopped chewing my sandwich.

I'm not going to go into too much detail about the rest of the route here, because I want to talk mostly about training and gear in this chapter; but suffice to say I found a long stretch - Plymouth to Lizard almost, fairly samey and relatively - relatively - bland. Plymouth to Looe, Looe to Charlestown, Charlestown to Falmouth, they all had their moments and highlights, and none of them were ugly runs, by any means. I just found this to be a bit like a treadmill. I was hankering a bit for more of the iconic stuff: more Kynance Cove, more Bedruthan Steps, more Porthcurno. Might have just been me, spoiled by Devon and the South Hams maybe, but in my head I was ticking these stages off. And then at Helford Passage; a mini disaster, an injury - and now with hindsight I wonder if this lack of inspiration and motivation was a contributory factor? Like I was grinding through the miles rather than flying along, and the body didn't like that.

Falmouth to Lizard Point looked great on paper. I was using my retired Dad as a drop off and pick up taxi; allowing me to do a long linear section without the time consuming chore of having to park my car and get public transport back to my start point (a tactic I had used once or twice successfully). Falmouth to Helford is only 10 miles, so I left my bag in the car and arranged to collect it at Helford and then carry it for miles 10-30. The Helford Passage is a huge estuary. Big and complex and as the pedestrian ferry wasn't running (out of season), having a car to drive me around the river-mouth was very welcome (it still took 40minutes to give you an idea of how far the diversion is without the ferry). I got in the car, sat down, plugged my phone in to charge, and drank and ate while Dad drove. Then when I got out of the car at the other side of the estuary I could barely stand. A shooting pain in my heel that was both agonising and puzzling. Had I whacked it on a rock? I hadn't felt any bumps or twinges? But I could literally hardly stand to walk, really painful limping and wincing and drawing sharp gasps of breath. Briefly considering waving down the car before Dad drove off, I managed to force a jog - hoping it would warm up, and it did, eventually. I managed to get through the next 20 miles to Lizard in fairly acceptable discomfort. But once home, and over the next few days, it was clear I'd significantly hurt myself. I contacted a friend who'd done a PhD in Podiatry. After lots of questions she diagnosed Traction of the Achilles. This was largely self inflicted too: suffering from tight calves and tender Achilles since summer 2016, I'd been doing a lot - too much it turns out - of stretching and yoga. Trying to alleviate a problem I'd made it worse; "you're essentially pulling the Achilles insertion off the heel". Bugger. My podiatrist friend prescribed a diet of conditioning exercises to replace the aggressive stretching (I'd not really been doing any training for these runs: Just doing a 25-35mile run once every week then recovering then doing it again. She said my legs needed more strength to cope with the hills, otherwise I was just beating them up repeatedly. So squats, lunges, box step-ups, and calf raises were on the menu, and yoga and stretching were left alone for now. She also said I could keep running, just flat miles and no steep hills while my Achilles recovered. Phew. The final piece of advice was to run 'doubles': which is 2 'long' runs on consecutive days, to try and improve my max long run capacity.

Whereas I'd just been steeling myself to simply run a bit further each time I went out, the new advice was to train: don't underestimate the recovery 5k's, or the standard 10k miles in the bank, and use the 'doubles' to build that single run max stamina. So rather than a diet of one 30mile run each week or so, instead for the time being, the Double would be two 15-17 mile runs on consecutive days, to better equip me to cope with 30+ miles. So for an injured man - the advice was to run a little bit more, but more wisely, and to add conditioning into the bargain to turn my twiglet legs into more sturdy tools to carry me along.

I followed this advice religiously for the next 6 weeks, conditioning twice a week, doubles once a week, recovery 5ks and normal 10ks interspersed around that. Lo and behold I gradually felt better, even if she did still haunt my thoughts as I went through the regimen. I tried changing the playlists on my iTunes, and I tried focusing on form, I even tried counting steps, but it was like swimming against a tide of memories that were insistent on invading the present. Life still seemed to help in an organic way: I had some mountain trips for work that meant I was walking a lot up big hills, so my nerves about heading back to the SWCP were eased by the coincidental reintroduction to steep stuff.

I paid more attention to my equipment and nutrition too.

My normal day pack, winter version: The sandwich is PB, banana, and honey. There's a windproof, and an additional insulation layer, first aid kit and whistle. Bars, and a gel. Battery. Tripod. Buff, hat, gloves (windstopper), and 2.5L water in my br…

My normal day pack, winter version: The sandwich is PB, banana, and honey. There's a windproof, and an additional insulation layer, first aid kit and whistle. Bars, and a gel. Battery. Tripod. Buff, hat, gloves (windstopper), and 2.5L water in my brilliant Osprey Rev 6 pack.

Upgrade. Osprey dipped their toe in the water of ultra-running packs with the excellent Rev 6 (left); so when I got my hot little hands on the race-vest style Duro 6 (right) I was pretty excited and the difference is massive. The balance change…

Upgrade. Osprey dipped their toe in the water of ultra-running packs with the excellent Rev 6 (left); so when I got my hot little hands on the race-vest style Duro 6 (right) I was pretty excited and the difference is massive. The balance changes, it's snugger - reminds me of one of their old slogans: 'clings to your back like a frightened monkey'! The accessibility of the soft bottles on the chest is fantastic and allowed me to carry 3.5L fluid. The chest harness is improved and the functionality has been thought through so well - the usability is fantastic. Get one.

These chest mounted soft flasks are a brilliant addition to Osprey's running pack. They allow you to front load (forgive the pun) fluids because there's an extra litre of overall fluid capacity in the pack; and drinking more, early on in your run, i…

These chest mounted soft flasks are a brilliant addition to Osprey's running pack. They allow you to front load (forgive the pun) fluids because there's an extra litre of overall fluid capacity in the pack; and drinking more, early on in your run, is something I've sort of had to force myself to do, but is so effective in offsetting cramp and fatigue. Don't get me wrong, I know fluid is heavy, and it's a balancing act of time/distance as to how much you take, or maybe you have places on your own routes and races where you can refill easily enough; but the design means the extra weight is almost negated because of the excellent balance of the pack. The accessibility of gels and phone in the elasticated chest pouches is brilliant on both bags but the feel of the vest style Duro is a huge win.

A necessary replacement due to wear and tear. My faithful Terra Claws had taken me on some amazing adventures: The Cuillin Ridge, the Camille de Cavalls lap of Menorca, Dartmoor in a Day (twice), a Snowdon Horseshoe PB, a Bob Graham Round solo attem…

A necessary replacement due to wear and tear. My faithful Terra Claws had taken me on some amazing adventures: The Cuillin Ridge, the Camille de Cavalls lap of Menorca, Dartmoor in a Day (twice), a Snowdon Horseshoe PB, a Bob Graham Round solo attempt, plus 200 or so South West Coast Path miles.

The Mud Claws are surely the best fell running shoe available worldwide? Look at the lugs - you can imagine how great it was to stop wheel spinning on wet grass and muddy sections. I just adore them; they're dextrous and feel sensitive, but I still seem to cope on relatively long runs in them without feeling that they're not offering enough support or cushioning. Cheesy corny thing to say, but you lace them up and just feel at one with them. There's a trust element to this that's hard to quantify. But I can't think of a better shoe on the market.

I was also lucky enough to get some nutritional support from two wonderful companies: Chia Charge and Science in Sport (SIS). Both of these teams sent me little parcels and I gladly devoured them over the next few stages. Very much hand in hand with the extra training and better attention to equipment, eating and supplementing your diet properly adds in those extra few percentage points of strength, endurance, recovery and therefore overall comfort and enjoyment. Obviously I'm not running at a Dave Brailsford 'marginal gains' standard here, but I went from being whacked, and breaking myself on 20-25mile runs; to being okay after 30-35mile runs and walking like a normal human being the following day. How you fuel for these type of days out is - I think - something quite personal that can take years of trial and error to work out what works best for you. There are loads of variables to factor into your equation as well: how hydrated are you, how stressed are you, how much sleep have you had, when was your last day on/how rested are you, what time did you have your pre-run meal, how hot is it, and so on. So many factors effect performance - and I did an Exercise Science degree, so really ought to be in a position to know - that I'm still making it up as I go.

But I can say hand on heart: check out these products: Chia Charge bars are the tastiest I have ever come across, loads of bars just get stodgy and samey after prolonged and repeated use, whereas I could eat these every day. The seed packets make a brilliant addition to a morning smoothie as well, giving a controlled energy release, improving hydration and aiding recovery. The bars have electrolytes in too, which gives you back some of what you're losing, but in a 'real' food way, not the chemically yuckiness you can get from some sugary stuff. #chiacharge #plantpower

SIS gave me 2 products to test and both are of the excellent standard I've come to expect from them. The Overnight Protein recovery shake (Cookies and Cream) is one of those where you won't notice it working. You take it before sleep, get up the next day, feel fine, and carry on. The sort of thing where you'll only notice the next day stiffness when you forget to take it! The 60ml GO Caffeine Shots though... my word... you can't help but notice them! BAM! Next time you get that 'woah. Flagging' depth of tiredness and fatigue where you suddenly feel like you could close your eyes for a really slow blink (I ran through the night working on a brilliant event called Jurrasic Coast 100 and at 8am had one of these mega-lulls), wow! Neck one of these and it's like a super-charged triple espresso. I've found I only need to take one of these with me on a long run. #fuelledbyscience

So by the time I'd trained, recovered, and upgraded all my gear and food, I guess I was more than ready to press on. It felt like the path itself was giving me a little 'stop' sign. Teaching me a few life lessons. Gently saying 'listen up little man, this is a long way, over steep ground, you can't just rock up and do this, you need to be taking it more seriously. Or you'll break'. With the help from everyone, I went back to it with renewed vigour and hope, and was rewarded in spades. It seems funny to me, that it took me 200-300 miles of running this behemoth before I started to 'get it'. And that is what it felt like. After the hard yards from Plymouth to Falmouth (they weren't that bad, I must stress that, but just compared to what surrounds them they're less spectacular), going away for a short hiatus, training, rehabbing and preparing, and coming back to it, it wasn't so much reaquanting myself with an old friend, it felt more like just being in tune with the land. For example, there are sections where the path undulates, and now I was riding them rather than running them. Coasting down the hills and using the momentum to roll back up the next hill, cresting the top and rolling down the next one - it felt like I was freewheeling on a bike. Often I have thought it's important to really listen to nature, and really listen to your body. Now it felt like the message was loud and clear. Now I was covering ground without the sweat dripping off my nose and my brow furrowed. Now I had my eyes wide open with awe and the miles sped by effortlessly. It was a privilege now.

Kynance Cove

Kynance Cove

Mullion

Mullion

Porthleven Sands

Porthleven Sands

St Michael's Mount

St Michael's Mount

With the next leg starting from Lizard Point, I was tempted to run the 'Classic Quarter', which takes in all the ground from Great Britains most southerly point to its most westerly (Lands End) - a quarter of the compass. But instead I settled for doing this over 2 consecutive days, being able to better relish the scenery, take lots of photos and really enjoy it. Still, this is very nearly back to back marathons on hilly ground, so it was a great feeling to be back to full fitness, and really starting to think I'm getting to grips with it now. I know what I'm doing and I know how to handle it, preparing and recovering better, enjoying it more and being in the zone more. What beautiful land there is in Cornwall. Next time out I'll be heading past Sennen and turning East. Hopefully with the Gulf Stream and El Nino behind me more often than not as well!

Penberth

Penberth

Luscious Lamorna ('ansum to look at but not the easiest running terrain you'll find)

Luscious Lamorna ('ansum to look at but not the easiest running terrain you'll find)

Porthcurno

Porthcurno

The back of Chair Ladder, just past Porthgwarra

The back of Chair Ladder, just past Porthgwarra

Rush hour at wonderful Nanjizal

Rush hour at wonderful Nanjizal

The South West Coast Path - 1. South Devon

"It's good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end" Hemingway

I'm nearly two hundred miles into this odyssey already, so I'll try and catch you up. I've started running around the South West Coast Path (SWCP), it's a long way - 630 miles in total, from Poole to Minehead, and covers some incredible scenery. I'm doing it in bite sized chunks and that tactic lends itself quite well to a blog, with a few pictures and some words, coupled with a growing passion for it, and maybe some lessons learned about kit, training, logistics and nutrition, that perhaps this might be a useful resource for anyone else who has it on their to do list.

Todays soundtrack:

Lyrics: My Love I will hold on to your touch Until there's nothing left of us .... save you from this life And the cold depths of the rocky clutch Won't take away our love .... save you from this life and I'll hold .....

So I started from Beer, near Seaton in Devon. Having bivvied out on Beer Head itself to watch the Perseids with George, getting up the next day and running along a very hilly section to Budleigh Salterton was the 'start' for me. At first about half of my motivation for running along the often brutal hills was as training for mountain days. I've used the SWCP successfully before for training towards holidays in the Alps, or domestic trips to the mountains. But the rest of the motivation, sorry to say, but I'll put it out there: was Distraction Aversion therapy. A way of getting some head space away from thinking about a relationship, or maybe to think about it, both probably. Time alone to be processing stuff. Running as meditation, but also just making it less easy to text her, or call, or mope. Like a rubbish Forrest Gump, only with no one following me.

Beer Head

So having got to Budleigh, with transport home from George, I'd sown a seed. Some of the hills along this stretch are outrageous. I was painfully naïve. Around Sidmouth and Weston, I swear I had to put my hand down on the grass more than once, it was that steep.

The ups and downs from Beer to Budleigh. More savage than they look.

Then a few days later, I ran from Budleigh via Ladram Bay and Exmouth, then along the Exe Estuary to 'home', in Exeter. A week later again, I ran with my Dad (riding a bike) along the other side of the Exe to a nice pub at Cockwood called The Anchor Inn, and then I'd stitched together about 30-35 miles or so, and it felt significant enough to build on. But still not a concrete plan, just thinking I'd cover a big section and see if I felt like doing more. Or if I still needed more therapy. But once I had a little completed stretch to build on, the urge to build on it was there, for sure. I really wanted to go further, and see more. I printed out a little map of South West England and drew a bright red line along the little stretch of coast that I'd run along. I started to look at the map and see the next bit, and the next, and really wanted to make that line longer.

The next leg was another very steep one. Running from Cockwood to Berry Head was about 32 miles (my last training run before an amateurish Bob Graham Round attempt), and it included vertiginous sections between Teignmouth and Babbacombe that made even walking hard. Quite a lot of time spent in the woods here - lovely and atmospheric, but not much view of the sea or the coast. The woods were punctuated by a few glorious coves with crystal waters and small beaches. Beaches with pubs on. People sitting and enjoying their days. Envy. Why wasn't I normal? This leg was very chastening, physically. It also covered some of the least beautiful ground so far: running the sea front streets of Torquay, Paignton and Goodrington, dodging seagulls and dozens of holidaying families - I must admit to being in a grump, and hating human-beings. Chavvy, Monster drinking families with screaming kids, dogs on long leads, pushing baby-buggies while texting - not only made running a zig-zagging hazard, but were a stark contrast to the serenity and solitude I'd been experiencing for the previous 3-4 hours.

Hidden cove near Maidencombe

My times were demoralizingly slow too. Warts and all (taking photos, having a wee in the hedge, scoffing a squashed sandwich, adding and removing jackets, and walking up hills) I was doing about 10 minutes a mile. This felt embarrassing. But I don't think sweat stopped dripping from my nose from the moment I started to the moment I stopped, so I couldn't have pushed much harder really. I wasn't doing this for self-flagellation, just meditation, and I wanted to enjoy it as well. In late September I was lucky enough to fly to Menorca for Trail Running Magazine and complete a 3 day Ultra around the Menorca coastline. Without meaning to sound arrogant - this was an absolute breeze by comparison. Hearing other participants confessing their intimidation of - and then seeing them struggle on - the hilly sections, and then actually tackling them thinking 'that's not a real hill!' gave me a confidence boost that the SWCP certainly wasn't easy, and it had got me fitter, and I wasn't as weak as I'd thought.

Leaving Berry Head and seeing Start Point looking frighteningly far away.

The next leg I started with Justin - how he likes to conduct his business meetings. He set off from Berry Head like a bloody whippet, and I immediately struggled to maintain conversation and resorted to asking lots of open questions. He turned around at the Kingswear - Dartmouth ferry and I carried on - excited to be heading into what must be one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire track: The South Hams. Then: Cramp. The heck? What do you mean, cramp? Shut up legs. This was pretty annoying. I'd taken my fitness for granted a little bit and just assumed I'd muddle through, but in hindsight, I'd been too big for my boots. Neglecting any actual 'training' and getting by just winging it on one long 20+ mile leg every 7-10 days. Consequently each leg would leave me battered for a day or two, and each leg I'd be conking out by the end, gradually tightening up, shortening my gait, settling into a sort of death trudge, and muttering darkly as I inched towards the days end point.

Blackpool Sands. Devon in November!

Slapton Sands - seeing that much flat ground is a blessed relief!

Bullock Cove!

So that got me as far as Torcross. I hobbled into the village along the gorgeously aesthetic sweep of Slapton Sands, pretty much spent truth be told, when my actual aim for the day had been Salcombe! Ha. Eyes bigger than belly again. It's pretty easy to sit at home and look at the map and think 'right, I'll just run from there to there'; and then the reality of the terrain slaps you painfully back into your place.

It was also at this stage, that the time on my own started to make a real impact on me. Hours and hours and hours alone. Hardly passing anyone. Lots of time admiring the ever changing sky. Starting to feel slightly mazed by it all. I lost track of the amount of 'moments' I had, where I might startle an entire field of partridges into noisy flight, or see a peregrine chasing seagulls, or catch a starling murmuration, or notice a seal in the cove. What had started off as a tick-list exercise, had become something more existential. I thought of her a lot. Running over conversations in my head. Thinking of cleverer replies that I wish I'd used at the time. Never managing to get my camera out fast enough to share with her a picture of a dolphin pod breaching in the bay, or a herd of horses briefly galloping alongside me. I never run with music and instead listen to the rhythm of my breathing and footsteps, and try to soak up the elements, but all that time in ones own head, constantly exposed to natures ways... I know how it sounds. I saw so much amazing light, sea and rocks, and really felt like beauty is out there every single day. You just need to put yourself in the way of it.

How can you not want to run along a path like that!?

Code red God-beam situation in the South Hams

If you miss the Salcombe ferry, be prepared for a 45 minute taxi ride to the other side, or an icy swim across a tidal estuary

My first logistical near miss was at Salcombe. Turning up tired, wet with sweat, and quickly chilly in the December gloaming; I realised with dread that I might have taken the ferry for granted. East Portlemouth was a ghost town, and after a mild panic I saw that there was timetabled to be one more crossing on this day, at this time of year. It was still a long anxious wait, 'what if he knocks off early?'. The estuary cuts deeply into the surrounding land, complex, tidal, and frankly a long bloody detour. I asked the ferryman "So how long is it to get around without your help?" He said "Well, it's a 45 minute car ride". Gulp. That would have been a long, cold walk in the dark. I would have considered swimming.

The next leg from Salcombe to Noss Mayo was the best yet. I was getting the hang of it now. A dream of a run where every corner turned seemed to present a new jaw-dropping deserted cove. Past iconic little landmarks like The Bantham Hand and Burgh Island, and even a waded river crossing in the Erme Estuary that felt like getting stuck in to a mini-adventure. With the tide on it's way in, this got as deep as that area of inner thigh that makes you do an involuntary high pitched yelp. I've got a friend who ran this stretch and swam all 3 river estuaries. That's hardy (and admirably pure), but she's a legend, this is December, and I'm not made of such stern stuff.

Leaving Salcombe

Bantham Hand (bottom left) and Burgh Island

Crossing The Erme, thankful it wasn't a December swim

Noss Mayo and "The Best Chips in the West Country"

Finishing that leg at Noss Mayo, empty of energy, but high in spirits was really nice. I was close to Plymouth now, and close to having done all of the South Devon path. Noss Mayo was a real hidden gem as well. Salcombe, Dartmouth, and numerous other coastal towns and villages here are very beautiful, and wonderful places to live or visit. But Noss Mayo made me say 'wow', out loud. Wonderful. One of many places I'd dearly like to spend some time with her.

My last South Devon stage from Wembury to Plymouth was physically much easier, and scenically, not as spectacular. It starts wild and windswept at Wembury with great views of Mew Rock.

Wembury beach and Mew Rock

Geographically not as hilly either - the bus driver said, 'as flat as a witches tit, boy', and shorter too at only 13 miles, this leg was akin to tying up a loose end. Plymouth Sound is impressive to see, and with more time you could explore the various historically significant Naval sites. But beyond that the path winds through some very urban ground. Housing estates, docks, industrial estates - all a bit grotty, some litter and graffiti and a culture shock after what's passed before in the South Hams. Then Plymouth Hoe and into the City Centre and then suddenly that was South Devon done.

Plymouth Sound

A spring in my step as I 'finish' South Devon

Sunset from the Plymouth Hoe

It felt very satisfying to have run the whole of the South Devon coast. Very rewarding to have made a large linear journey. I was excited to cross the border into Cornwall and see how it compared. It had a lot to live up to, but thoughts of the iconic sites I'd pass: Bedruthan Steps, Kynance Cove, The Lizard, Lands End, Sennen and Bosigran, Porthcurno, the aesthetic arc of Mounts Bay... my appetite was well and truly whetted, and besides, my contemplation wasn't over yet.

Mark.

 

 

The Bob Graham Round. Okay, some of it.

I first found out about 'The Bob Graham' when I was 35. After an epiphany where I fell in love with mountains aged 29, I spent the next few years basically throwing myself at them in all ways, hiking, scrambling, running, climbing, winter climbing. At that stage my passion far outstripped my knowledge, and it was a case of following that, and seeing what I enjoyed most. At first it was scrambling, I loved moving over steep rock using my hands and whole body, it felt like such a childishly fun way to climb a mountain, much preferable to me than walking up, which often feels like a slog to me. Then on occasion I'd find myself running, sort of out of excitement. I used the word childish above, and the urge to run was borne out of that as well. I did a day trip to Snowdonia from Devon once. My girlfriend at the time thought I'd gone mad and I probably had a little bit. Got up at 4, drove without stopping, parked in Ogwen by 9.30, had a full day on the Glyders then drove home in time for Match of the Day. It honestly felt like a 'fix' to a drug addict. I remember breaking into a run from an almost greedy motivation, to gobble up as many peaks and views as I could. When I started buying proper gear (I shudder now but my first scamper up Tryfan was like the archetypal tourist: jeans, t-shirt, running trainers), I knew I wanted to buy lightweight shoes and steadfastly not boots. But I didn't, at that stage, know what scrambling was, or that fell running even existed as a pastime.
My brother gave me the amazing and now iconic book Feet in the Clouds (Richard Askwith) not long after this. A tale of fell running and obsession, it chronicles the authors pursuit of completing the infamous Bob Graham Round: A Lakeland challenge set in the 1930's by Bob Graham, covering 42 Peaks, ~70miles, starting and finishing in Keswick. Still devouring classic mountaineering literature as fast as my eyes could Johnny 5 scan it, I finished this book and then moved onto the next. Then a year or two later I met someone who dropped it into conversation about footwear. "I wore Inov8's for my Bob Graham". I was stunned: "Woah, wait, you've done a Bob Graham Round?" I thought it was reserved for immortals. But soon I was involved on supporting people attempting their own Rounds, and learning fast about mountain running. However, the idea to pursue my own attempt seemed farcical and I never entertained it. I knew enough to know that a part of the significance of the 42 Peaks was to do with Bob Graham's age, and I sort of decided that I'd put it off until my 42nd birthday. Also, I was too keen on climbing at that stage to run as much as was necessary to be in that sort of shape.
Suddenly of course, I was 41. Having put it off for a few years, but having it in my mind any time I'd run an OMM, Yorkshire 3 Peaks, Race the Train or any mountain run, now the year was here to run, to train, and to get Ultra fit. Urgh. It seemed like such a bind. A hugely time consuming chore. But slowly some running happened. At first just getting 10k fit, then 20k fit. Then, as detailed earlier in the year on this blog, I trained with James to run across Dartmoor (31mi). That was March. In June I 'ran' along the Cuillin Ridge on Skye with Libby, and did the Snowdon Horseshoe - 'getting some hills in my legs'. And by July I didn't really have any more excuses left. But the BG would be more than twice as far as the Dartmoor crossing, and more than twice the accumulated ascent of Skye. I started using the South West Coast path to train on, basically because it's the steepest hills Devon has to offer, and running increasingly long stages of that. Even so, there is still a huge gulf between 30+miles along the coast path, accumulating something like 5000ft of ascent, and ~70 miles around the Lake District, supposedly including ~28,000feet of ascent. Of all the mini-challenges I've taken on this year, I was fairly certain this would be the one I'd ultimately fail at. I'd bitten off more than I could chew this time.
Just to further stack the odds, I opted not to ask a bunch of friends to give up their time and run Legs for me as support & pacers. I just felt too guilty to do it, and told myself that doing it unsupported meant less pressure. If I fail, which I probably will, at least I'm not letting anyone else down. Pacers typically will carry all food and drink, providing the runner with a steady stream of jelly babies and gels and bars, and passing drinks - so the runner doesn't have the burden of carrying that extra weight. Plus, they do all the navigating, and keep spirits up with conversation and jokes and generally distracting the runner when things get hard. Forgoing pacers was a bit silly really, not naive exactly, but far too idealistic. But there we go, that's what I did. I also didn't help myself with travel and accommodation. I got so nervous about actually doing it, I hedged my bets with travelling (in case my actual birthday (I wanted it to be the 24hours of my actual birthday) was full of thunderstorms or heavy rain), and didn't book any accommodation local to Keswick. So on the morning of the day I was due to start at midnight, I checked the forecast - iffy - and asked my retired Dad if he'd drive up with me, explained about the road crossings, told him he could sleep in the car and wouldn't have to do anything other than essentially ferry some food around for me (which would save me a day spent caching it around the Lakes in hedgerows or behind rocks).
We drove up to Keswick, I got half an hour snooze in the car. I packed my bag, and was ready to go. I was ridiculously nervous. Scared even. Not really sure why. The dark? It was certainly more intimidating but I'm a bit old to be scared of the dark. Loneliness? Maybe a bit. That's a lot of time in your own head. Getting lost? My nav should be okay if the weather holds up. Hard to say. Impending pain? Failure? Genuinely not sure but must admit, nerves bordering on fear were fluttering for the afternoon and evening before I set off. So I sat in the car with my bag packed for ages. Dad told me to stop procrastinating and get on with it. He was right. "Okay, see you at Threlkeld about 2.30am then?" "Do you want a picture of you at the Moot Hall?" "God no. The street is full of people getting drunk on a Bank Holiday weekend, I want to tag the front door, push Record on Strava and get out of there as soon as possible".
And just like that I was running. Forcing myself to go super slow, repeating a friends mantra 'light and easy', I found my way out of Keswick and onto the lane that leads up hill to Latrigg. As soon as it started to get stiff, I walked. Acutely conscious there was a long way to go, I was going to walk up all hills, and gently jog any flats and down-hills, broadly speaking. So basically its then quite a slow start, as Skiddaw summit is quite a way back from the A66, and more or less a uniformly sloggy uphill trudge. Quickly, things started to go wrong.
'Some patchy mist above 700m overnight', was much more like 'blanket fog'. In the dark with my head-torch bouncing back off the clag, I could only see about 2-3m in front of my feet and to either side. I started using the grass verge at the side of the path as a handrail. As the path grew wider, and more rocky, I lost the verge, so then it was a matter of using contours and shape, and continuing on the same bearing. I was hoping not to have the map out really, but it was suddenly essential. Finding the Trig point on the top was a big relief, but it was fairly windy now, slightly damp, and I was cold, and a bit annoyed. The prospect of heading on over the top onto less travelled ground, path free, shooting bearings and pace counting, unable to run because of the limited vision, did not appeal. Very quickly, considering this was the 1st top, I decided to retreat to Keswick. Immediately relieved at not heading into the back of beyond, and the mires and becks around Great Calva, I still realised I'd need to use the map to pick up the track down. I decided on a compromise, I was unlikely to do the Round anyway, the pea soup was just the nail in the coffin, but I didn't want to retreat back to Devon without some sort of long day in the mountains having come all this way. I'd run to Threlkeld, still meaning about a 14mi leg, and hopefully by then the fog would be clearer and the Helvellyn range would be better. A nice consolation would be to run 42 miles, and maybe I could still string all the 3000ers together on foot (Skiddaw, Helvellyn, Scafell Pike and Scafell), by doing the first 3 Legs, maybe I'd manage that?

Skiddaw Trig Point.

Turning round and heading down, I saw 3 head-torches approaching. In the 5-10 seconds it took for them to run past me, my thought processes went like this: I'm saved! - Hey, if they stop and say Hello perhaps I could ask to tag along? - They seem to be actually running up this hill - Why the heck didn't I get support to do all this nav and carry my bag? - Crikey they're going fast - "Hello!" "Hi!" [they didn't stop] - [I watched them disappear, quickly] - Even if I followed them I'd lose them before Great Calva and I'd still be out there navving on my Todd anyway - Ah well, back to Keswick.
I picked up the path quite easily, and started zig zagging down. The rock was wet from the fog and I walked gingerly to avoid a slip. One of the 3 runners caught me up, he was heading down. We chatted, I told him the above thought processes and general plan for the day. He very kindly said 'you've been unlucky with that fog, it wasn't supposed to be that bad; but you should give yourself a huge pat on the back for having the balls to set off from the Moot Hall on your own. I couldn't have done that. The reason I caught you up was because I didn't fancy getting off here in these conditions on my own'. We said goodbye at the A66 and I headed East. Glad to be out of the fog, I jogged along fairly easily, until arriving in Threlkeld and finding Dad, awake, around 2.20am, having saved myself climbing two mountains but not saved much mileage. I told him the new plan, replenished a few bars and fluid, and set off for Clough Head with my fingers crossed for better conditions on the tops for this Leg.
I was to be disappointed! Picking up the paths low down easily enough, this approach stretch was still demoralising, with some heavy boggy sections that saw me in up to my knees, soaking wet feet, and a sloggy, up hill stomp that was seriously uninspiring. But I knew that was going to be the case, and only hoped that once on the tops this undulating range should be some of the most runnable terrain of the day. I found the Clough Head Trig' in yet more thick pea soup.

Cloud Head. Annoying.

Worse than Skiddaw. Annoying. Map out, bearing taken, pace counting and walking - it would have been like running blind folded - I set off for the Dodds exasperated, a bit chilly, questioning WTF I was doing with my birthday, feeling lonely, and hoping my nav continued to hold up. Days before I'd told myself that if I did twist an ankle or worse, I'd be on well travelled terrain, on Bank Holiday Monday, and passers by would never be more than a safety whistle blast away. Right at that moment that was plainly not the case. I found the next peaks cairn with another sigh of relief, and pushed on.

Bleak, bleak boggy times.

At the next top I was admittedly fairly grumpy. 4.30am perhaps? Awake for 20 hours now and scurrying up and down mountains for the last 6, this all felt very futile and very, very silly. I thought about bailing off to the road and throwing the towel in. The map showed the next decent descent path to do that from was 2 more tops away, so I grit my teeth, put my hat and gloves on, hood up, scoffed a cereal bar, and set off for one more miserable hour of this micro-nav walking. Either the fog would clear, or I'd reach the exit point. It might be a grim hour, but it's only an hour, and I could grind that out.
Approaching Helvellyn Low Man the clouds parted. I could see a thin crescent moon and the tops of the clouds, like you do sometimes in an aeroplane after take off. For 5 seconds I could see. It was beautiful. I grabbed a quick view of what was ahead (in case I lost it again), and took a photo of the parting clouds.

It occurred to me that a full moon and a clear sky would be really bloody nice to run in. Then over the next 5 minutes the fog/clouds basically blew away. Right away, like re-setting an Etch-A-Sketch. Suddenly I was standing on a wide ridge in a sea of clouds, seeing the other tops around Thirlmere, Patterdale and beyond above the clouds like islands in the sea, it was hypnotically beautiful and I took photos and stared, almost open-mouthed. I have never, ever, been so glad to see a view, and not just any view, this wasn't a multi-storey carpark in Luton. The sun wasn't up yet, but light was improving and the colours in the sky were vivid and amazing. I ran. Everything out the window: No tactics, no pacing, no plan no thought, just running along almost deliriously I floated along the rest of that range at a decent bloody pace and it didn't even feel hard, it felt like a privilege, even to run up the hills and slopes of Helvellyn and Nethermost Pike. Somehow I felt light, rejuvenated, it felt like flying. Pure joy of running for half an hour, an hour. I found myself saying 'morning!' to sheep as I passed them at a helter skelter down hill pace. They look a lot less threatening when their eyes aren't reflecting a head-torch beam back at you in the pitch dark.

Sheep.

All runners have those experiences when running feels effortless, you flow along able to run fast, striding out seemingly without trying. This was like that, only on gorgeous mountain terrain, as the sun rose, above the clouds, even on the up hill bits I was scampering up them without even breaking a sweat, no lactic in my legs, just covering the ground so effortlessly it felt natural and right. All of that, with these amazing views, after 5 or 6 hours of being in a 2-3metre head torch bubble of fog. I felt like I could run and run, go as fast as I wanted and never fatigue, like I was a part of the wind almost. Weightless.
The sun actually came up just before Seat Sandal.

I could see the road and skipped my way down to meet Dad at Dunmail Raise.
Dad was cold, I was on a high, I used a baby wipe to semi-clean my filthy feet (there is still black bog gunk under my toenails over 10 days later and I've nail brushed them to within an inch of their lives), dried them, then Vaselined them, and change my socks. I ate. This more substantial road stop was basically breakfast, so I had one of those cold Frappy coffee things, some rice pudding, re-stocked my bag; and all the time jabbering to Dad about that leg being 'a game of two halves', he only seemed amazed that I wasn't cold. Steel Fell looked steep. It is steep. A hands on knees march, straight up.
Keen to get stuck into Leg 3, telling Dad I'd see him in Wasdale, I sent a text to a dear friend who was checking up on me having survived the night, and set off. Dad headed for a cafe breakfast, gloating about a full English and a hot brew. Steel Fell did not feel effortless and weightless and like the wind. Steel Fell felt like a bastard. I slogged. Quickly reminded what lactic feels like. At the top I slurped some fluid between gasping lung-fulls of air, and looked across to Calf Crag, Sergeant Man, High Raise and the Langdale Pikes. This looked wide and open and frankly, bloody far, but it was clear and sunny, not hot yet, at maybe 8am, and I set off trying to trot at a more sustainable pace. These were lovely miles. Basically a large plateau, admittedly with some damp boggy bits, I cared less about wet feet now, I was getting stuck in and just devouring the ground, I was headed for Wasdale with no real escape plan (Langdale potentially, but that would involve a grovelling phone call to Dad, if he even had signal). There was no one there, for acres and acres. Feet in the Clouds says something about the feeling of running in The Lakes, alongside crowds of walkers until you reach the first top, where they stop and break open their packed lunches, and you then carry on able to explore huge expanses of wide open mountains in total solitude. It's one of the joys of running in this landscape, simply to cover and see so much more landscape. On Thunacar Knott a couple kissing and cuddling on one of the peaks shouted across to me "Willyou take our picture?". They were approximately 100m away and I thought: that means run to you, get your camera, run back, take the photo, run and return your camera, then run on... So I shouted back "Sure" and took their photo on my camera and ran away. Giggling to myself at my own mean spirited joke.

Canoodling couple. I showed them.

I went up Loft Crag by mistake. Adding in a peak was never part of the plan, but somewhere around this stage Strava announed "35 miles, 11 hours and 20minutes", and I briefly considered that I was half way in distance terms, in less than half the time. Even allowing for missing out Great Calva and Blencathra, perhaps I could still complete a 'lap' of sorts, and make it back to Keswick within 24 hours?

Stickle Tarn, Langdale, Windermere in the distance.

Slightly amazed that I seemed to be on some sort of schedule even after the infuriatingly slow going of the night nav, I carried on around the head of Mickleden towards Rossett Pike and Bowfell. It was getting warm now.

Mickleden.


Around Angle Tarn - people. Lots of people. Felt like a culture shock. Then at Esk Hause I started to fade. Great End and Ill Crag felt like very annoying diversions on rocky, boulder hopping terrain, I was walking, and gulping as much fluid as I could. Getting through the gels and bars now too, I was acutely aware of the need to on-board as much fuel as I could. Then, seemingly instantaneously, just before Scafell Pike I was done. Finished. Walking up towards the hoards of folk on the summit platform I started to see stars, and my left arm started to tingle with pins and needles. Worried it might be a heart attack I sat down and took off my pack. I lolled and nearly fell asleep sitting up/keeling over. A passing walker asked "Are you okay mate?" and when I focussed on his face I could see he looked shocked at my appearance. Slightly worrying. I said "yea I'm fine, thanks", and he said "okay" in a tone that suggested 'I don't believe you' and walked on. I ate a bar, slurped a gel, scoffed some sweets, drank some drink, and sat there, simultaneously telling myself 'It's just a slump, you were always going to have some slumps, take 5, and then get to Wasdale and regroup' and 'Nope, that's me, I'm done'. Coming into this thing, I always knew there'd be a time when I had to ask myself 'how much do you want this?' - aware that it would hurt, and carrying on would seem impossible. And I always thought my answer would be 'Not that much'. This wasn't quite like that. I had a sore toe from kicking a rock, and a blister, and I could feel my knees on the down hills, but I was so tired, so so tired, it felt like sleep deprivation way more than pure physical exhaustion. And I was done. Utterly.

At this stage I've done all the tops in this photo, about 15 visible I think.

At this stage I've done all the tops in this photo, about 15 visible I think.


I didn't even stop on Scafell Pike, walked straight past the hundred or so people swarming the top, in a grump chuntering to myself, I stumbled down to Mickledore and Broad Stand (I'd forgotten I'd need to use my hands), which was scary in my woozy state, then from Scafell to Wasdale Head I just dragged arse. I'd given up. I'd get to Dad, and we'd get a pint and a pie then drive home. Could not wait to get my shoes off, and eat something other than pure sugar. Strava kept telling me how slow I was. "Previous mile in 31 minutes". Fuck off Strava. The only silver lining of the tracking app at this stage was that I knew I was close to ticking over 42 miles (which was a pretty bloody good guess) and would do so by the valley floor. Finally, after the longest, interminable descent, I could see the National Trust Campsite and my car. I looked across to Yewbarrow and the 'straight up' start to Leg 4. Laughed out loud. Not for a million pounds could I get up there. If I was ever crazy enough to try this again, that would be cruxy. Get your teeth stuck into Leg 4 and then surely from Honnister you can crawl to Keswick. Three Legs would do me today, I was satisfied with that. On my own apart from Dad, with silly weather on the night Legs, and sub standard prep and fitness, and stupidly thinking I would just drive up, do it, drive back (Like a sort of crap Goran Kropp!). Amateur Hour. I was done in, but satisfied that I'd given everything I could on this occasion. It had been a memorable birthday.
Dad didn't have any words of wisdom or carefully premeditated psychological encouragement. "I'm done Dad" "Okay, let's go home then". Didn't even mention a pint or a meal. Probably for the best. Driving home swapping driving duties every hour was hard enough as it was, borderline dangerous as I twice opened my eyes in the middle lane. Bad drills really. Should have stopped at a hotel somewhere, but we were close enough to getting home by just after midnight so we forced on; made it home and I collapsed into my bed where I stayed for 11 hours.

It took me about a week to recover. Blisters were dressed, toe nails were clipped, legs were stretched. It was Day 3 when I was able to go 'bannister free', but the lasting issue was a deep fatigue. I had afternoon sleeps that felt unstoppable, unconsciousness washing over me like a tsunami, and slept 10 deep hours every night for the following week. That was a nice feeling, deeply, deeply tired. I was 42. I wondered what the next year would bring.

Here are the some other pictures of sunrise...

And just like that, they blew away.

Catstycam.

Helvellyn Trig showing Skiddaw and Clough Head Trig's how to do it.

Towards Patterdale.

Striding Edge at dawn.

Skye, mountain rapture

A long rambling essay about a long rambling day out.

I wanted to write something about a day on the Cuillin Ridge, from just a couple of weeks ago, but it’s still settling down in my mind and I’m not totally sure how to really shape and express my thoughts on it yet. At the same time it seems silly to write about it in a month or more’s time, then it just becomes ‘this thing I did once’. It sort of needs to be current to a degree, I want to capture my thoughts on it, even if they’re somewhat incoherent or unformulated. So this post may turn into a rambling stream of consciousness. Or I may delete it. But at least it’s a start to getting some words down. Because the reality related to those thoughts isn't matched by the profound feeling they're generating. They're disproportionate to what actually happened.

From Glen Brittle looking in to Coire na Banachdich.

Libby and I had been planning a Skye trip for well over 18 months. We’d both discovered that neither of us had ever done the full Black Cuillin Traverse, and agreed to try it together. Almost as soon as the words were out of my mouth I panicked. Gulp. Libby is fitter than me (think The Tortoise and the Hare), a vastly better climber than me, has way more experience of soloing than me, and basically I knew I’d have to step up considerably to not embarrass myself, or let her down. So I started training around Christmas time, for a May holiday and attempt. Libby was injured, and as cruel as it sounds I relished the chance to steal a march on her while she stagnated. I ran and ran, got as much rock mileage in as I could, and went to North Wales to pick her up in pretty good, confident spirits, but then it snowed on Skye. All week. We’d planned to do a summer crossing, so had to console ourselves with a week of Welsh trad. It simply wasn’t worth wasting the fuel costs and journey time when the ridge was covered in snow and the weather was so wet and volatile.

We agreed to try again. A year later, and this time Libby wasn’t injured, but she’d still managed to lay down some ground rules, in her humble way, about our tactics: an old shoulder injury would really not tolerate a heavy pack, and she was keen to go as light (and ergo, as fast) as we could. Fast and light was fine by me, having done the Dartmoor crossing in March, my cardio fitness was pretty good.

I spent a few days in North Wales getting some mountains in my legs and doing some easy soloing to get my head in gear as well. But actually I only had a 50% strike rate with the solo’s I'd tried, finding 3 big multi-pitch Classic Rock ticks 'fine', but then backing off 3 as well. I ran the Snowdon Horseshoe in 2h 19m, just about beating Libby’s PB. This wasn’t even much consolation though, as I know full well Libby didn’t dig anywhere near as deep as I did, to run it in only 10 minutes more. Taking a quick summit picture on Snowdon, the solitary woman on top had looked at me in a funny way, and when I said "Hello" she replied, “I think you have, erm… dried energy gel?... matted in your beard?” I was a state, and coming down off Lliwedd I even stumbled and fell, like a drunk, as my legs were jelly. I had to console myself with it being good training, some really useful mileage, a stern reminder that going uphill is hard, and a need to focus on that aspect of running for the remaining month before Skye.

Half way round the Horseshoe, with gel in my beard, realising that Devon isn't that steep.

Half way round the Horseshoe, with gel in my beard, realising that Devon isn't that steep.

So Wales was a really worthwhile trip. With solo’s of Flying Buttress, Gashed Crag, and the outrageously exposed Spiral Stairs under my belt, plus the Horseshoe run, plus running up to Heather Terrace and down from the top of Tryfan. And another day getting beasted up and down both sides of the Pass with Libby, I was definitely on the right track. On the downside, I’d backed off both the Classic Rock ticks on Carreg Wastad (Crackstone Rib felt as loose as Rob’s Mum, and by the time we got to Wrinkle I think my brittle confidence was gone anyway), and also down-climbing from over half height on the incredible California Arete, in the slate quarries. That one remains as an itch I will go back and scratch. So yea, getting there, but work still to be done.

California Arete. Photo: Charlie Woodburn.

Collecting Libby to head to Skye we had a decent forecast. Overcast with sunny spells, it seemed to look the same all week. That will do.  We arrived late, and wrote off an attempt the very next day, even given a favourable forecast, because of car weariness. We instead used that day as a recce of the middle section that’s got the most concentrated section of route finding and harder climbing in it. It was glorious, but even 'only' walking, I came down exhausted and chastened. The climbs had felt go-y enough even on a rope! Libby sagely told me "don’t be despondent, we’re tired, carrying heavy packs, and it will feel much easier in running gear with just hydration packs".

Ruling out helmets, gear and heavier packs.

The next day it rained. And got what the Met Office technically refer to as really bloody windy. Decent forecasts turned very poor. Grey, wet and windy became the theme and we wondered if we’d foolishly missed our only good weather day. I became borderline desperate: “The winds die down by midnight, maybe we could run it by moonlight?” I wondered if Libby was rethinking her offer of running with such a total punter? We filled our days with seeing the other crags on the island. Gorgeous Neist Point is one to head back to for sure, away from the crowds of tourists at the Lighthouse the atmosphere of the other parts of the crag was other worldly. The Old Man of Storr no less so, it's easy to see why it’s appeared in Sci-Fi films. Kilt Rock has one of the most tempting looking Extreme Rock lines I’ve ever seen, and wonderful Elgol also provided some fun distraction from the elephant in the room: we might miss out, again.

Messing around at Elgol. Photo: Libby Peter.

Giving the weather every chance, we resisted the urge to head south a day early and try to get something done on The Ben or in The Lakes. Instead delaying our departure until as late as practicably possible, taking the chance that a 15 hour drive Sunday and straight back to work on Monday would be worth sticking around for. It really, really was. The little weather window we saw on Saturday morning turned out to be the prime slot for one of the best days in the hills either of us had ever had. Good things come to those who wait.

Our weather window.

Our weather window.

The day started with a 4am alarm, it was already light, midsummers day this far North sees only a strange twilight between midnight and 3ish. I ate as much granola as I could poke down, drank a litre of water, wishing I could force more in, and scoffed a banana. Bags were already packed so a quick scrub of my teeth and a wee and suddenly we were walking away from Glen Brittle campsite, in fairly sombre silence (mostly fatigue, but also probably gathering our thoughts for what was to come).

Packing. Light, is very much right. Photo: Libby Peter.

After 2 hours of deliberately slow energy conserving ambling, we turned left and began the slog up Gars Bheinn that the guidebook calls “an early test of character”. I can say without melodrama, that by the top, all that jibber jabber from Libby that we’d cruise in, sit around chatting and eating, maybe have a stretch and then go for it, was utter guff - I was knackered. By 8am. A Danish pastry partially picked me up. I applied all my spare layers, and added 'Cold' to 'Knackered'.

"An early test of character". Guidebook understatement is my favourite. Photo: Libby Peter.

Hastened by the chill, we suddenly set off, after over 18 months of waiting and preparing, training and researching, dreaming and yearning, and suddenly we were running.

“We’re running!” Libby shouted.

“We’re running!” I shouted back.

I was nervous and jerky, stumbling a little, so I overtook Libby to try and find some sort of rhythm and get warmed into it. That stopped abruptly at basically the first inclines of Sgurr nan Eag, where I also abruptly stopped being cold. Libby had revised the route description, consigning it to memory - left here, right there, pass this pinnacle on that side, pick up this contour path here, so it would have been wiser (obvious, you might think) to keep her within earshot rather than hare off following my nose. Fortunately, the hills slapped that spaniel-esque over-enthusiasm out of me, and she caught up, looking decidedly less sweaty and gaspy.

The windproof layer was stashed in the bag somewhere before Sgurr Dubh Mor, and the 'route finding' (for me) was still a very loose term. Despite Libby’s being an uber-experienced Mountain Guide, and me a bumbling ML, and her having revised the route while I only revised scenarios about falling to my doom, I still seemed to be saying "I think it’s this way" far too often. I took us up a gully to the wrong top, and she did well not to slap me.

Libby says go left here. But is she sure? Really? Zoiks. Photo: Libby Peter.

Still vaguely surprised that we were actually doing it, we pressed on with controlled urgency. Libby was scribbling down our split times between tops, so we knew we were roughly doubling Finlay Wild's times, our arbitrary gauge of respectability. Approaching the infamous TD Gap I started to have quiet words with myself. You’ve had nearly 2 years waiting for this chance sonny Jim, it would be a great shame to bottle it now because you’re too timid to climb a short V Diff without a rope. As an extra precaution to give me no excuse for the fear sobs, I’d carried my climbing shoes, and a small amount of liquid chalk, as I sat and put these on I still really hadn’t made up my mind whether I could/would do each climb. The down climb went fine. I got started before I had a chance to hesitate. Then sitting and watching Libby half way up the climb out of the Gap - some cause for concern. She didn’t like it. That wasn't in the script. Doing it in trainers, and not as tall as me, she’d found the other day that she needed to do 2 more moves than me to reach a jug rail, and these involved insecure hands and small shiny edges for feet, in running trainers, so I could hardly blame her for hesitating. I didn’t like it either, and I could lank it to the jugs. As she came back and made noises (for my benefit?) about us maybe taking the gully, I offered to make her feel better by reminding her what a really bad climber looks like. Ignoring the sequence I’d used on the recce (literally no idea what I was doing, hadn't even made up my mind to go for it, just being caught up in the moment, my conscious brain silently chastising: 'woah! What the hell are you doing? This hasn't been signed off?'), I made a thuggy move on jugs - dragging my feet up and locking off , then throwing my foot back on, and suddenly was stood up with easier ground to come to finish. Libby’s head appeared soon after while I was reapplying my running shoes. “Interesting decision to go feet off on that move”. Funny! My plan to inspire her with my own incompetence had worked like a charm.

TD Gap to Sgurr Alisdair, then Thearlaich, and Mhic Chionnich, these past quickly and easily. Confidence and energy were high. Kings Chimney. I loved Kings Chimney. I suddenly felt in the zone. Soloing was just an extended form of scrambling and there was no way I was going to fall off. I was able to laugh and joke around with Libby, and then with 3 of the graded climbs behind us all of a sudden it felt like we were basically half way.

When your friend gets a photo of you soloing on a big mountain route, you want to look like a hero, but you're wearing tights, and white socks. Photo: Libby Peter

The weather was still glorious, we were both smiling, relatively fresh and making good progress, at around double Finlay Wild’s splits pace. Following on from this mild euphoria the In Pinn turned into a cruisy bask. No one at the bottom (we’d said we wouldn’t queue) meant we got straight on and started up the improbable blade, casually chatting and joking. I’d done this before, years ago, but had no actual memory of the views out to the right – on account of it being mind-bendingly exposed. This time it was a romp. Temporarily time pressures were irrelevant and we were both beaming as we topped out. Libby briefly headed for the West Ridge down-climb, while I retraced the East Ridge.

Like being out for a stroll. Libby accessing the Inaccessible.

She soon shouted that the queue’s for abseils were too much and she would catch me up. We chatted to some guys roping up at the bottom who cautioned us by asking how we planned to tackle An Dorus later in our crossing. With no ropes we only had one choice or tactic, which seemed mildly alarming to them, and these eye-brow raises again added to my confidence. But somehow here, we started to lose urgency. Over the top of Sgurr Dearg and on towards Banachdich, physically half way, I started to fatigue. Eating some gels and bars, and drinking more than I’d rationed myself. The climb back to the summit from the Bealach dragged, and it was the first time I’d put my hands on my knees to aid upward progress.

Waving goodbye to my knees. Photo: Libby Peter.

The guidebook says the next section is ‘the mind numbing middle section’, and calls it ‘interminable’. Not far wrong. Sans recce this all felt very slow and exploratory. Greadaidh, “May Day” and Bidein Druim nan Ramh were confusing. The Three Tops, Three Teeth and Three Pinnacles - these landmark names didn’t help either. We were sure the guidebook sent us left when we should have gone right, right when we should have gone left. I twice questioned Libby (wrong again, both times. Learning curve?!), and we once crawled a horizontal cleft above a void that was so off route it would probably have made for funny viewing from across the Coire. “Lib? Just for the record, do we actually know which mountain we’re on?” She just laughed an admission back at me and kept going. There was the one notable zig-zagged down climb at An Dorus that certainly refocused the mind, but the rest of that section is a blur. I remember thinking to say "My knees hurt" or "My legs are tired" and then thinking 'Be quiet. What's she going to do? Say "Aww, you poor poppet"?' I managed to keep those thoughts to myself for all of about twenty minutes. 

"My knees hurt. And my legs are tired."

"Yep."

Probably in hindsight we need to admit that we'd lost concentration a little. By Bruach na Frithe I was done in. I had about 200ml of water left and was very thirsty, only a couple of gels. We stopped and Libby said “We could just stop here couldn’t we? I mean, that will do, won’t it?” I was drenched in sweat, had been for hours, and my knees had aged 20 years.

Cannot wait for 2 more Munro's. Photo: Libby Peter

To add to our general malaise we were now half an hour slower than our hoped for finish time, and still had 2 major Munro’s to go. Finlay Wild took 20minutes for this final section, looking across to Gillean, I thought we might take 3 or 4 times that.

Looking very serious about getting the last gels in. Photo: Libby Peter.

Am Basteir was disgusting, but by the time we were slogging up to Gillean I was starting to feel happy, we’d done it, no more difficulties, not as fast as we wanted - sure - but an utterly perfect weather day and no mishaps, and then out of the blue Libby went all direttissima on me (yes it is unfair of me to criticise the only person to do any actual route-finding all day) and took us up some dark, wet, exposed and bottomless gully that provided an unexpected sting in the tale. I confess to cursing [her name] under my breath after she’d disappeared out of eye sight and ear shot. Too tired to be frightened by now, but I did suddenly need to really concentrate and get my head back on. Even though this felt like another semi-serious and ad hoc solo, and even in my fatigued state, I still felt a surge of confidence that at this stage I could basically climb anything. I was more annoyed than scared. No idea what the grade was, but it didn't really matter, by now we were sort of 'at one' with it all.

Topping out to see her smiling on the summit made those negative thoughts evaporate instantly and I dumped my bag and we hugged, elated and giggly. I stopped the stopwatch on my Apps (NB: word of warning to anyone thinking to attempt and record a crossing; they didn’t work, either of them, and it surely can’t be a coincidence that both Strava and Suunto Apps failed on the same run – having neither of them ever failed me before; so I wondered about the Gabbro (known to mess with compasses) maybe interfering with them in some way?).

Finished (in more ways than one) on Gillean. If I hadn't carried that whisky I wouldn't have been so tired. Gars Bheinn is the starting peak, right of shot.

There were 2 middle aged (older than us) and stout Geordies on the top of Gillean. “What have youse two done?”

“The Ridge” Libby said modestly.

“Aye but what part of it? Where from like?”

“All of it”

[Astonished look] “But it’s only half past 3 youse must be Ninjas?!”

We both laughed while they surveyed our packs…

“Have youse not carried ropes or gear?! Did youse solo all the climbs n abseils? Jeeezus! Pair o' Space Cadets yuz are!”

We laughed and offered them a tot of our summit Talisker. Kicking off our shoes and sitting in the warm sun, we chatted and they told us about their day.

“Will you be in the Slighachan later, you must let us buy you both beers?”

“Clachaig hopefully, I think we might make a start to our journey South tonight”

“CLACHAIG!?! What are you driving man, a Delorean?!”

The walk out was predictably a bit of a trudge. From the road by the Fairy Pools, we cadged a lift back to the car, got changed, and had dinner and a Talisker in the Sligachan (he was right about the over ambitious nature of making last orders in Glen Coe).  A gloriously clichéd end to our perfect day.

Less than 15k's. But full value, "Scottish K's".

The days that followed were introspective and surreal. I knew I’d be exhausted, after a long day like that (around 14 full value hours from tent to tent), with all the ascent and descent and mileage, the emotional intensity of the soloing, the constant and near endless concentration of just not putting a foot wrong when scampering along above potential death falls, I knew that would take it’s toll. A 15 hour drive home wouldn’t help, and nor would a 12 hour day back at work on Monday (including 6 hours back in the car!) before even unpacking a bag. But the rest of that week, and some of the next, I spent in some sort of bizarre reverie.

If the legs weren’t coping well with the workload I’d given them, the mind really was struggling to digest it all. It felt like a cross between being in some sort of hard fought life preserving battle, and a state of rapture. A joy so deep I struggled to describe it to friends and family. Do people want to know that stuff anyway? I think they just want you to say 'Yea it was amazing', maybe show them a photo or two and then move on. We live in an age where hyperbole and overblown adjectives are so common anyway; words like awesome and amazing are used so frequently they lose their impact. I regard myself as a relatively eloquent guy, but I still can’t fully articulate it. Going along that Ridge seemed to touch every nerve and involve every emotion and trait. Frightening, taxing, tiring, joyous, serious, fun, beautiful, savage… almost every aspect of my character was somehow moved. Changed? I felt like I’d poured myself into it physically, mentally and emotionally and was utterly emptied. But what it had given me in return was a timeless gift, not just the memories, or the confidence boosting thrill of successfully ‘stepping up’, not just the loveliness of sharing a day that special with a dear friend, or the privilege to be soaking up the grandeur and majesty of these make-believe mountains, but somehow like an affirmation of self. Like I was born to do that; But more, in a duplicitous way where I was simultaneously taking and giving, expending myself and improving myself with a sum greater than the parts, some magical ingredient was being added and it had fundamentally changed me. We both felt like our little weather window had appeared in such a fated way, and it was so perfect, that we were sort of ‘looked after’. Neither of us are religious, but there was an evangelical nature about it. The statistics associated with the journey don’t help me justify my hippy feelings on it either. They’re only V Diffs. It’s only 7 miles. It was only half a day in the sunshine. But it felt like something way beyond what often gets called ‘an epic’. It wasn’t an epic. Nothing ever went wrong. We dug deep, but even before we got back to the car we’d worked out how we could go an hour faster if we did it again. I wasn’t terrified on any of the climbs like I have been on others. Nothing remotely added up to the impact it made on me. 

Definitely gone soft.

Weeks later I'm still torn about what to think of it. Should we go back? Would our slowing down towards the end eventually leave a sad taste that needs addressing? Or would a future crossing pale in comparison and nullify some of the perfect beauty of this day? So should we leave it alone? And if we leave it alone, what on Earth comes next? What else can come close to a day this good? Should I stop climbing altogether? Go out on a high? I've never been into it for thrills and ratcheting up the stakes and ambition, but having a day like this - a raison d'etre, and then some - it's stopped me in my tracks. There's a blank canvas for the future and I'm nervous to touch it. I came down from the Ridge totally spent. At work on Monday I had to wear a long sleeved shirt to hide the cuts and scratches on my arms - I looked like a self harmer, my legs were bruised and scraped, my feet were battered and disgusting, and I couldn't use the finger-print recognition log-in to my phone and online banking apps for over a week! Although I already miss it like a grief (Libby confessed to still looking at weather forecasts (ha!)), and ache to be there, I also don't want to sully this day in any way. Yet.

Mark.

Soloing at Hound Tor

Soloing is a bit of a taboo subject, even amongst climbers. A bit of an eye-brow raiser. It's something I've done precious little of, and anyone who's ever climbed with me will tell you I'm one of the most cautious, timid climbers going. But some of the things I wanted to do this summer involved [some easy] soloing, chief amongst them was the Black Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye.

The Cuillin is ~11 kilometres long end to end, and renowned as one of the ultimate mountaineering challenges in the UK. Most first time attempts fail. Lots are caught out by the sun going down, and missing last orders at the Sligachan pub at the end. Plenty of people attempt it over 2 days with a bivvy, and the vast majority carry ropes and rack for the various technical climbs and a few abseils. I've done quite a bit of running this year, and even given the 4000 metres of ascent and descent involved, I'm pretty happy with my cardio fitness for a long day in the hills, but I've not done enough climbing mileage, and have resolved over the last month or so, to try and get out more, and try and practice soloing to get my head as fit as my heart and lungs are!

A good friend of mine suggested we run the Cuillin Ridge (and solo all the climbs, and down-climb all the abseils), as that would mean carrying a lighter bag, no bivvy equipment, no ropes, no rack, move fast - need less; Solid logic, and truth be told - I was immediately seduced by that idea. Moving swiftly and easily over rock in the mountains is my greatest joy, and from the comfort of my armchair it's easy to imagine how amazing this would be. The reality of actually doing it though is that I'll need to practice. The hardest graded climb on the Cuillin Ridge is about HS (Hard Severe), which is a grade I wouldn't think twice about on a normal climbing day. But when you factor in that I'd be climbing that in trainers, without chalk, or ropes & protection, possibly tired (probably tired!), down-climbing and onsighting, with mountain exposure, carrying a small hydration pack (which will still weight ~5kg)... it all adds up to make that feel like more than HS, and to do that I'd want to be totally cruising, so practice was definitely needed.

So far I've not done that much, a few of the longer easy routes at the the Dewerstone (Mucky Gully, Colonel's Arete, Reverse Cleft) on a gusty Sunday, which all felt fine, easy even. Moving slowly and deliberately, always in balance, statically and being careful to be able to reverse any moves - it felt deeply satisfying and fulfilling. Quiet, peaceful and mellow, and far from the adrenaline rush non-climbers might imagine it to be. With plenty of time to wallow in your thoughts, calm any fluttery breathing, being methodical but also relaxed and enjoying the moment, I was really thrilled with how enriching it felt. I drove home wondering if I'd cracked it already. But next day out I backed off a bunch of super easy sport climbs at Portland that were not as high, or as hard, but just, well... I wasn't feeling it... and it's really not the right genre of climbing to force it. At a loose end one night, I went to Dartmoor and did a circuit of easy highball stuff I've done before (note to pedants: I know climbing above pads isn't really soloing, but it's still high enough to have some spice!), but actually this doesn't really feel like soloing. These type of micro-routes which Dartmoor is so rich in - they're not really high enough or long enough to have time to practice, or to dwell, to accept and deal with the head games. They're not the exact sort of soloing I need anyway. Chudleigh's polish and occasional loose blocks doesn't inspire me to venture there either really. DWS (Deep Water Soloing) also doesn't really feel quite right. It just doesn't 'fit'. In truth, Devon doesn't seem to have a wealth of the right style of routes for my own very personal preparations.

Anyway, I'll post more as I get around to it, in the meantime, this is the utterly delicious Aerobic Wall on Hound Tor. A friend of mine badly broke his ankle falling off this some years ago, he had to have it pinned and limped for a long time afterwards. Having only done it myself once or twice prior to his accident, I hadn't done it since. I'd longed to have it as a part of my regular circuit, something I could enjoy time and again, but been intimidated. On my first time, I'd top-roped it as practice, and then tried to solo it, but on reaching the top I realised that while I'd been top roping and rehearsing moves, I hadn't actually practiced topping out. So with my hands sliding on the slopers and slapping to replace them while I searched for a Thank God hold, I was starting to panic as I heard a small boy somewhere below and behind me (they hadn't been there when I'd set off, but must have stopped to watch) say, "Daddy, is that man about to die?". For the record it's graded E2 5c, but with a pad, and having done it before (years ago), the grade doesn't really apply - it was just easy to balance my phone against my chalk bucket on a boulder nearby, and hopefully capture some of the lovely solitude of having the Tor to myself on a spring evening! 

Mark.